Not getting propane in RV -- bad regulator?
So I have a 22 foot KZ MXT22 Toy hauler. Pretty standard type of travel trailer, and it has 2 20# propane tanks on the front. again, fairly standard setup, the tanks both have pigtails that go into a ...
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Modern propne tanks have a safety that shuts them off if too fast a flow is detected (it assumes you have a broken line or other major line failure).
If you open your tank valve too quickly, the initial rush of gas to fill the empty lines often triggers this safety. It does not usually clear itself. rather, you must turn off the valve, wait a few minutes, then open it S-L-O-W-L-Y. Just a crack and sneak it open until you hear a type of click as the line is pressurized.
Here's how to clear this problem.
1. Turn off both tanks
2. Turn on a burner on your stove until no air or gas comes out- to bleed the lines. (Yes, no open flames, etc, although the amount of gas would be very minimal if any)
3. Turn off all propane appliances (furnace, fridge, stove, h/w heater, etc
4. Disconnect each tank for a moment (both at once) then reconnect to regulator as normal. You've now cleared any pressure in the lines and hopefully any safety devices.
5. Turn your regulator lever (if auto changeover, else skip this step) to your fullest tank (you did lift it to make sure it was pretty heavy, right? ;) )
6. VERY SLOWLY crack open the valve of your fullest tank just barely, then sneak open the valve just a hair at a time until you hear it click and/or hear a rush of gas. Repeat with 2nd tank, if you have one. If you open it too quickly, you'll hear more of a snap or thunk as the safety valve slams closed.
7. Inspect your lines and regulator, tanks, etc for any leaks.
8. Light a BBQ lighter inside at the stove and hold the flame next to a burner on the stove and turn that burner on. You should get just air that tries to blow out the flame for the first 10-60 secs. Continue until it lights, then light the other burners at the same time and let them burn for about 30 secs, watching for any puffing or struggling flames, surging, etc.
9. Turn off burners and turn on fridge in the usual manner. Once it is lit and running on propane without any alarms (may take one or two cycles as the gas fills the line), you can proceed to the h/w heater, furnace, etc.
Notes: If you do not get any air or gas to the stove when lighting the burners, you don't have any flow. You didn't mention if you were getting air at these burners now or not. Air but not gas is still flow, just have to bleed those lines.
Note 2: If the weather if very cold, tanks can fail to flow at proper rate, which gets worse as the propane level in the tank drops. Dump some hot water on the tank itself (avoid regulator, it has a vent in it!)
Note 3: Feel the regulator and tank valves. If they feel "frosty" cold, you may have cold weather and low propane levels (almost empty tank). High flow rate items make this symptom worse, which is why sometimes your stove burners will work, but not the furnace ;)
Give these steps a shot and let us know how you make out. I had this same problem with our first popup years ago. And I knew better! LOL.
If you open your tank valve too quickly, the initial rush of gas to fill the empty lines often triggers this safety. It does not usually clear itself. rather, you must turn off the valve, wait a few minutes, then open it S-L-O-W-L-Y. Just a crack and sneak it open until you hear a type of click as the line is pressurized.
Here's how to clear this problem.
1. Turn off both tanks
2. Turn on a burner on your stove until no air or gas comes out- to bleed the lines. (Yes, no open flames, etc, although the amount of gas would be very minimal if any)
3. Turn off all propane appliances (furnace, fridge, stove, h/w heater, etc
4. Disconnect each tank for a moment (both at once) then reconnect to regulator as normal. You've now cleared any pressure in the lines and hopefully any safety devices.
5. Turn your regulator lever (if auto changeover, else skip this step) to your fullest tank (you did lift it to make sure it was pretty heavy, right? ;) )
6. VERY SLOWLY crack open the valve of your fullest tank just barely, then sneak open the valve just a hair at a time until you hear it click and/or hear a rush of gas. Repeat with 2nd tank, if you have one. If you open it too quickly, you'll hear more of a snap or thunk as the safety valve slams closed.
7. Inspect your lines and regulator, tanks, etc for any leaks.
8. Light a BBQ lighter inside at the stove and hold the flame next to a burner on the stove and turn that burner on. You should get just air that tries to blow out the flame for the first 10-60 secs. Continue until it lights, then light the other burners at the same time and let them burn for about 30 secs, watching for any puffing or struggling flames, surging, etc.
9. Turn off burners and turn on fridge in the usual manner. Once it is lit and running on propane without any alarms (may take one or two cycles as the gas fills the line), you can proceed to the h/w heater, furnace, etc.
Notes: If you do not get any air or gas to the stove when lighting the burners, you don't have any flow. You didn't mention if you were getting air at these burners now or not. Air but not gas is still flow, just have to bleed those lines.
Note 2: If the weather if very cold, tanks can fail to flow at proper rate, which gets worse as the propane level in the tank drops. Dump some hot water on the tank itself (avoid regulator, it has a vent in it!)
Note 3: Feel the regulator and tank valves. If they feel "frosty" cold, you may have cold weather and low propane levels (almost empty tank). High flow rate items make this symptom worse, which is why sometimes your stove burners will work, but not the furnace ;)
Give these steps a shot and let us know how you make out. I had this same problem with our first popup years ago. And I knew better! LOL.
