Forum Discussion

Kampfirekid's avatar
Kampfirekid
Explorer
Oct 16, 2013

Okay. Serious Thoughts On EcoBoost Towing 9.5K

Im really trying hard to buy an economy car to allow me to keep my 2010 F250 6.4L Harley Edition Super Duty. Its not coming together well. Its several hundred dollars each month more than I spend now on my truck and fuel alone. It seems the savings in fuel alone by driving an economy car will pay for the truck payment alone, but there still is no savings. I put miles on too fast to pay my truck off before it hits 150k, and at 65k niw, Id like to get a car now while miles are low. Frankly, I dont want this truck after 100k as a daily driver. For pleasure and towing, okay, ill keep it past 150k.

So, I only tow about 4-5,000 miles a year, if that. All through the Midwest, Illinois, Michigan, and Wisconsin. Usually less than 500 miles round trip. Our trailer is a 2011 Jayco Jay Flight 32BHDS. It weighs about 9,200 loaded. The tongue weight at 1,180. I am wondering if the Ecoboost Supercrew with the Heavy Duty Payload Package (yielding close to 2,200 lbs of payload) will foot the bill for the 12 trips a year under 500 miles. The expected payload already exceeds my 1,950 on my Harley F250 diesel. Will the lighter-duty F150 be that much more unstable and unbearable for my needs?

I was hoping my limited edition Harley could move to the pole barn for restricted use and a car run daily until it falls apart, 150k miles... whichever comes first. Frankly, it looks like a dream. The EcoBoost F150 could makea better daily driver being more comfortable, and netting better fuel economy at a reduced cost per gallon Granted, it wont get 30mpg, but it will beat the diesel, still tow, and fuel and maintence is cheaper.

All thoughts are appreciated.
Tow Vehicles
  • 93Cobra2771's avatar
    93Cobra2771
    Explorer
    Oct 16, 2013
    So let me get this straight - he would be going up in payload, yet everyone thinks his towing performance will be going down?

    You will need to do the math and decide if the fuel savings will truly make up the difference. I'll not go into the economics of whether it's a good decision or not.

    Your question was whether the EB would work. Yes, it will. Motor and trans will definitely pull the load. Supporting structure on the HD payload option will fit the bill.

    It will ride stiffer than normal F150s, I've heard reports that it's somewhere close to a 250 super duty. You will lose about 200# of torque, give or take. But with your 9300# loaded weight I am confident you could pull just fine.

    With all that being said, truck stays in my garage most of the time, and I tool around in my Geo Metro. :D
  • Lowsuv's avatar
    Lowsuv
    Explorer
    Oct 16, 2013
    my experience is that it costs money to trade trucks .
    when i get a new truck i buy a new snug top canopy , running boards , upgrade the stereo , get better floormats , get a bedliner , upgrade the wheels and tires .
    because my 2002 duramax ( bought new ) has big brakes and upgraded tires it goes one and a half times as far on these consumeable parts as a half ton .
    my oil changes cost me under sixty bucks locally which is about fifteen bucks more than a half ton .
    So fuel is my major additional expense over a half ton .
    i get about 13 mpg driving around our little town and i live on a hill which overlooks the city and is a 400 foot elevation climb for every trip i make .
    i get about 19 mpg when i get out of town with the absolute best 19.9876 mpg .
    i pay cheap insurance for the one duramax .
    the duramax will last forever because it is only turning 1800 rpm at highway speeds and is built strong .
    from an expense standpoint the cheapest solution is to drive and maintain the one you own .
    if not , then get one of the many high mpg alternatives that are everywhere such as a prius , corolla , civic , etc .
    i have a sportscar as a 3rd vehicle .
    for fun a mini cooper , or one of the myriad small hotrods can help justify the additional insurance expense of the 3rd car .
    for myself i would not downgrade to a half ton because when i go camping i load the kitchen sink and prefer a HEAVY tongue weight and 4 big disk brakes that the 3 /4 ton provides .
  • eluwak's avatar
    eluwak
    Explorer
    Oct 16, 2013
    IMO, this is not going to work out like you hope. I often wish my eco had better FE because it's used as the family hauler with 25k miles put on in the last year. $400/mo+ for gas gets old... I think about having an economy car to use for DD status, but if I spent $150/mo on the car to double the mileage, and add another $50/mo for insurance/tags/etc., then it doesn't look so good only saving mileage on the truck at best.
  • Kampfirekid's avatar
    Kampfirekid
    Explorer
    Oct 16, 2013
    eluwak wrote:
    IMO, this is not going to work out like you hope. I often wish my eco had better FE because it's used as the family hauler with 25k miles put on in the last year. $400/mo+ for gas gets old... I think about having an economy car to use for DD status, but if I spent $150/mo on the car to double the mileage, and add another $50/mo for insurance/tags/etc., then it doesn't look so good only saving mileage on the truck at best.


    That's what I find as well. I really hate to drive this truck into the ground. The limited build seems to be holding a high value now, which is another reason I have contemplated dumping her. I have basically driven the truck for 45k miles for the cost of fuel, oil changes, and insurance. Oops, I did do tires this summer.

    I priced downsizing the trailer and going EcoBoost, but at four years out, I am waaaay upside down, or have more debt than I care to have. We bought our trailer used and basically stole it, but even with very good equity, a new trailer is out for now.

    Guess I will drive on until next spring as I approach 100k on the truck and review it all again.

    Thanks everyone for your thoughts.
  • Lantley's avatar
    Lantley
    Nomad
    Oct 16, 2013
    93Cobra2771 wrote:
    So let me get this straight - he would be going up in payload, yet everyone thinks his towing performance will be going down?

    You will need to do the math and decide if the fuel savings will truly make up the difference. I'll not go into the economics of whether it's a good decision or not.

    Your question was whether the EB would work. Yes, it will. Motor and trans will definitely pull the load. Supporting structure on the HD payload option will fit the bill.

    It will ride stiffer than normal F150s, I've heard reports that it's somewhere close to a 250 super duty. You will lose about 200# of torque, give or take. But with your 9300# loaded weight I am confident you could pull just fine.

    With all that being said, truck stays in my garage most of the time, and I tool around in my Geo Metro. :D


    Doesn't the F150 have an 1100# hitch rating?
  • 93Cobra2771's avatar
    93Cobra2771
    Explorer
    Oct 16, 2013
    A bit of load shifting would fix that. 40# moved to the back. Or 80# into the bed of the truck.
  • fla-gypsy's avatar
    fla-gypsy
    Explorer
    Oct 16, 2013
    It might work but towing with the F-150 HD payload will still not give you the same stability you get with the F-250 IMO.
  • aedubber's avatar
    aedubber
    Explorer
    Oct 16, 2013
    You can get the Ecoboost with the HD package on it , this will give you a 2400lb payload . Setup properly they are rated to tow a little over 11k . The way they designed the power band for the turbo/motor setup is ideal for towing . You can always get a tune for the motor to give you a nice jump in HP/TRQ .

    9200 is a lot of weight , besides pulling it , you want to think about going down a hill or sudden stops , you might need a heavier truck to keep the TT in control and not have the TT control you . If i was in your shows i would keep your 250 and buy a cheap little Kia or Toyota tercel for your DD . You gotta do the math and see what makes sense for your pocket and future , there is a few different ways around it.
  • JIMNLIN's avatar
    JIMNLIN
    Explorer III
    Oct 16, 2013
    A second car doesn't make cents/sense for everyone including myself.

    My '03 2500 Dodge/Cummins HO NV5600 3.73 gears averaged 21-21.5 mpg on a 660 mile a week commute.
    The truck pulled my 11200 lb 5th wheel RV and my other trailers up to 16k.
    I tried the small car thing but cost of the car and fuel/insurance and keeping it reliable for a 110 mile a day commute for a year was adding huge costs.

    The OP 6.4 Ford truck doesn't give the best mpgs as my neighbor found out with a brand new '08 6.4 F350 DRW 4x4 crew cab truck. His commute is just over 65 miles a day and at 13-13.5 mpg, high fuel costs was eating him up plus adding 48k miles the first 22 months. He now drives a small two door car. However he says he isn't saving any cash but at least he isn't running the odo up on the DRW.

    I would look into a tow truck that can average 20+ mpg not towing for your commute but can pull a 10k trailer.
  • Kampfirekid's avatar
    Kampfirekid
    Explorer
    Oct 16, 2013
    A new or newer truck has been an option I am considering. It seems the 6.7L Stroke is netting better numbers. I may consider a low mileage used truck, or new, since I have great trade value in my truck, and will likely see a mpg gain of 3+. My dad has an '11 and regularly gets 19mpg, where I am usually at 16. With the new tires and cooler temps, I'm closer to 15. Could be since I've been towing quite regularly, too. I'm not sure a car is a good option, anyway. At 6'-5", it's hard to find comfort in a 32+ mpg car, and I've driven trucks as DD as far back as I started driving. I don't like being on the ground.

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