Overloaded wheel Breakage

jimh425 wrote:
I think the lug bolts don’t carry much if the wheels are hub centric. However, I have heard of bolts breaking if the wheels get loose.

Hub or lug centric is irrelevant regarding load. The load is carried by the friction between the wheel and mating surface. This friction is created by the clamping force of the lugs which is why proper torque on our lug nuts is important. This is also the reason you don't want any grease or oil on those mating surfaces.

"Centric" refers to how a wheel is centered while mounting. Hub centric wheels are good for manufacturing because the wheel can be mounted on the vehicle then the lug nuts just torqued down. With a lug centered wheel more care must be taken while installing and tightening the lugs.

Siletzspey wrote:
FYI/question - on a 1-ton, the tire, wheel, axle, spring and frame ratings tend to be max'ed out equally, so upgrading just one component doesn't necessarily buy you much. I read what seemed like a fairly competent posting elsewhere that the lug bolts (pattern, count, size) are another weight-rated link-in-the-chain to consider. While the tires always win the weakest-link award, I wonder where lug bolts fall in the line-up?

Axles are in fact very under-rated by the truck makers.
If you check with the axle makers, you’ll find that 3/4 and 1-ton rear axles are rated a whole lot higher than the truck makers claim.

Upgrading wheels and tires gets you real benefits.

In my search for upgrading Tires and Wheels for my F350 SRW several large tire / wheel dealers suggested the Method 305 NV Heavy Duty Wheels. I just installed these wheels and they’re listed as having the highest load rating for 18” Wheels that I can find. On the backside of the wheel it’s stamped (6 Lug 3500 lb rating) and (8 Lug 4500 lb rating). So clearly this manufacturer is labeling the weight rating for Lug Nut Application. How many wheel manufacturers stamp the Lug nut weight capacity by Lug application?
This thread has opinions on after market versus OEM wheels and my Super Duty F350 SRW is not a grocery getter it was purchased to haul a 12000 lb 5th Wheel or my new 89RBS Adventurer Camper. The F350 OEM Wheels at 3650 # rating would cover my 7000# Door Sticker for the rear axle weight, but the Campers loaded Wet weight is a little over and this prompted upgrading to the 4080# 295/70R/18 Cooper Tires and the wider 18x9 Method Wheel at 4500# Rating. Attention to monitoring Tire Pressures often and checking Wheel Torque especially the rear axle has been a Standard Operating Procedure for many years of RVing.

Alcoa wheels are expensive and have a high rating by comparison. They need sticky weights inside the wheel because the regular weights will cause a white rash to form on the coating with the outer edge hammer on weights. You also need to scrape the mating surfaces anytime you have the wheels off because there is always a bit of scale from the corrosion being that its against a steel hub all the time. This so you can torque them to at least 120 ft lbs. Mine are not hub centric just well torqued with a good torque wrench. been hauling the camper with them for 16 yrs this October. They are the highest rated 16 inch rim you can find.

I don't want 19.5's because I think they are too hard on the running gear with 3.55 gears. Maybe alright with 4.10 running gears

wnjj wrote:
What I find pathetic is the wheels were supposedly rated for 2500 lbs but failed with not much over 3000. That is a terrible margin for such a critical component. That wheel was either defective or the company that made it is.

20% is quite a bit.

Muh wheel scot pleny of life lef

What I find pathetic is the wheels were supposedly rated for 2500 lbs but failed with not much over 3000. That is a terrible margin for such a critical component. That wheel was either defective or the company that made it is.

I think the lug bolts don’t carry much if the wheels are hub centric. However, I have heard of bolts breaking if the wheels get loose.

FYI/question - on a 1-ton, the tire, wheel, axle, spring and frame ratings tend to be max'ed out equally, so upgrading just one component doesn't necessarily buy you much. I read what seemed like a fairly competent posting elsewhere that the lug bolts (pattern, count, size) are another weight-rated link-in-the-chain to consider. While the tires always win the weakest-link award, I wonder where lug bolts fall in the line-up?

ticki2 wrote:
I had an oem rear steel duel break around the bolts like that . Truck was not overloaded . Sometimes stuff just happens , possibly an original defect that took time to show up . Usually you can assume an oem steel wheel is rated at least as much as an original tire the manufacturer puts on it . Finding the actual rating of an oem wheel is near impossible .

They're ugly but I'll keep them. :B

I spent my money on a "world class car audio system" instead of bling.

I can't see my wheels while I'm driving but I sure can enjoy the stereo. ;)