Power Problems

robsouth wrote:
Inverter is from 12V to 110V. You are correct, must be a typo.

Yes. typo in the diagram. Inverter Power is from 12V to 110V.

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One should never screw (change) TT's factory wiring. And if needed, one should install an Inverter to allow one to easily disconnect the inverter area using physical disconnect or perhaps manual off/on switch. Thus, the "Inverter Only" outlets are only active - when you want (need) them active.


With above in mind, simply:
- Connect 12V to 110/120V Invertor (like - Cobra Inverter box - ) to onboard 12V battery.
Note: Remember to properly size Invertor and its 12V wiring (to battery) as well.
- Inverter can be mounted inside the front storage area or using long 12V "+" or "-" cables, its Inverter box can be within an inside cabinet. Since each RV floor plan is different, one must pick the best install location (base on inner layout).
- Inverter's 110/120V Output Ports are then wired using 110/120 Male Plug and its runs can be 110/120 14/2 house wiring. Simple items at local hardware store.
- 14/2 wiring goes to new (different color) 110/120V outlets. For example, one outlet installed on kitchen area counter. Other outlet installed behind TV Cabinet area. These are "Inverter only" outlets and can be orange color or their covers can be a different color. Thus, clearly showing these 110/120V outlets are "Inverter Only" power.

When Invertor power is needed, simply connect Inverter to battery (or turn on its manual off/on switch - located on Trailer's tongue area), disconnect TV and plug into orange color Invertor Only outlet. And if one wants to make coffee, simply unplug the coffee pot from its normal 110/120 outlet and plug into kitchen counter area orange Invertor Only outlet.

By using above, the Invertor (remember to properly size for max loads) can provide power to Inventor Only outlets (like plugged in Coffee pot or Plugged in TV set) and it can be done without changing factory 110/120V wiring. And when needed, the Inverter can be turned off - using manual off/on switch (or disconnecting from TT's onboard 12V battery). And by using "parallel wiring", one doesn't screw with RV/TT's factory wiring either.

Hope this helps.

Inverter is from 12V to 110V. You are correct, must be a typo.

Spike99, your diagram has given me my first understanding of what is going on in a trailer's electrical system. Thank you.

I don't mean to hijack the OP's post, but I was able to follow the diagram all the way through the standard setup, but got lost on the optional power inverter. It says "(from 110 to 12V.)" Then it shows power to the duplex receptacles for the 110 coffee pot, tv, etc. Is that "(110 to 12V)" a typo, or am I not understanding?

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If wondering, I had a previous 1993 Prowler. Its converter blow (for no apparent reason). To trouble-shoot, I simply found its converter, removed its "+" and "-" output port cables and plugged my 12V tester into its output ports. NO output. I then tested its 110/120V line (power in) using 110/120V tester, and checked its fuses as well. Yup. This factory Convertor has "110V in power" but no "12V out power". I then simply removed this old box and took removed box to my local RV store. Their RV parts guy simply matched it with his on-shelf stock units. For my older TT, I went from factory 40A to much better Progressive 45A unit (with no thicker wire changes). I simple removed the old box and connected the new box - ensuring its "+" and "-" ports were properly connected as well. Yes, its replacement cost me a few dollars. Especially buying new from RV parts store instead of shopping around. But, my TT's RV power problem was immediately fixed.

re: http://www.progressivedyn.com/prod_details/rv_conv/rv_converter_pd9145a_2.html

This same approach might work for your older TT as well.

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Good logical view of RV/TT diagram is below diagram.

If your RV has a good battery and sometimes its 12V system works and sometimes it doesn't, do investigate its converter. Confirm if its converter is working properly. If these 2 areas test fine, then investigate its wiring area (between its AC panel, to Converter, to 12V battery area). A few months back, I remember reading a post where the guy's 110/120 Plug on his TT's converter vibrated out (from road bumps). He had intermitting problem that was very hard to find. But, he eventually found the problem (with no flipped breakers or blown fuses either).



Source file: - Click Here -

Note: Diagram updated with corrected Text. re: Power Invertor (connected to 12V battery) is for 12V power to 110V power devices.

Most campers need a good battery regardless of whether you are plugged into shore power or not. 1. The batter is necessary for the emergency breakaway switch to operate the trailer brakes should the trailer become disconnected form the tow vehicle. 2. Some trailers use the batter as a "buffer" between the converter and the circuitry to avoid over using the converter. 3. Most of the fridges and furnaces are controlled by a circuit board that depends on 12 volt power from the batter to operate properly. 4. Most of the lights in the camper depend on adequate 12 volt supply from the battery to function properly. 5. etc, etc. In short, you need an adequately charged batter for optimum performance from your camper.

Moved from Forum Technical Support

Hi silverfox,

Most rv's use 12 volt for lighting, water pump, control boards, and brakes.

Read this site and it may help you understand what is going on:

http://rvroadtrip.us/library/12v_system.php