I'm trying to replace the stock steering damper on my 2012 F350 with a Bilstein (along with the front shocks) and despite what I can find on youtube I'm having a heck of a time getting the old one out.Old damperNew damperI haven't been able to drive the above fitting out on the truck. You can see on the new damper image what it looks like. There is almost no room to swing a hammer in there. And I don't see any way to use a 'C' clamp. Is there a special tool suitable for this, a bearing puller maybe. Which I don't have and have never used. From what I recall about them tho they would take a lot more room than exists.Any suggestions are very welcome. Otherwise I guess I'll have to run it down to the local mechanic and let him do it. If the tool coast too much I might to that anyway.The front shocks are their own PITA, the upper screw has to be removed 1/6th of a turn at a time. And those are hard turns too. I have a combo 21mm ratchet wrench coming in tomorrow that will make that easier there isn't room for a long socket and ratchet wrench. And the long screw doesn't let you use a short socket until the nut is 75% off.

You might want to see if the local auto parts store loans tools. If so, a pickle fork may help.

nofoolin wrote:You might want to see if the local auto parts store loans tools. If so, a pickle fork may help.Ah, that might work. I bought the damper online and I doubt the local Advance Auto place which does lend tools would be very enthused about loaning me one but they aren't that expensive from Amazon.

Pickle forks and tie rod end press's are cheap at Harbor Freight.

11.49 from Amazon delivered, HF was a dollar cheaper but I'd have to drive 25 miles there and back.

auto parts stores do not care if you purchase a part for the LOAN tool program..a tie-rod end removal press tool will do the job...http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/attachments/engine-rebuilding/54038d1167968862-special-tool-steering-link-removal-iap-tie_rod_remover.jpg

Question for the experts | Good Sam Community

nofoolin
Explorer
Feb 14, 2016
You might want to see if the local auto parts store loans tools. If so, a pickle fork may help.
agesilaus
Explorer III
Feb 14, 2016
nofoolin wrote:
You might want to see if the local auto parts store loans tools. If so, a pickle fork may help.

Ah, that might work. I bought the damper online and I doubt the local Advance Auto place which does lend tools would be very enthused about loaning me one but they aren't that expensive from Amazon.
rhagfo
Explorer III
Feb 14, 2016
Pickle forks and tie rod end press's are cheap at Harbor Freight.
agesilaus
Explorer III
Feb 14, 2016
11.49 from Amazon delivered, HF was a dollar cheaper but I'd have to drive 25 miles there and back.
Chuck_thehammer
Explorer
Feb 14, 2016
auto parts stores do not care if you purchase a part for the LOAN tool program..

a tie-rod end removal press tool will do the job...

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/attachments/engine-rebuilding/54038d1167968862-special-tool-steering-link-removal-iap-tie_rod_remover.jpg
FishOnOne
Nomad
Feb 14, 2016
Here's a video of how to replace the steering dampener and the tool to use to remove it.

Link
nofoolin
Explorer
Feb 14, 2016
This would be my choice also if it will fit in the tight area. Also would want enough room to be able to rap the head of the "bolt" on the puller to help break the joint loose and lessen the strain on the puller. I recommended a pickle fork because it is so inexpensive and versatile.

If I felt I'd be doing this type of work often enough, a quality pneumatic impact hammer with attachments can take the sweat out of a lot of similar jobs and often substitute for many specific use pullers. Pullers are less likely to do damage to rubber boots ... Guess you can never have enough tools.
agesilaus
Explorer III
Feb 14, 2016
FishOnOne wrote:
Here's a video of how to replace the steering dampener and the tool to use to remove it.

Link

Thanks I missed that video when I was looking at them. He might have been better off with a standard socket rather than that unusual one he was using. He couldn't keep the socket on the bolt.

The arrangement under my truck is slightly different than that 2011 he was working on, there is maybe 4-5 inches on clearance under the fitting and less than that on top. I'm not sure if that puller would fit. I'll give the pickle fork a try then go borrow one of the others if that doesn't work.
ktmrfs
Explorer II
Feb 15, 2016
solution Pickle fork and few wacks. Looks like my silverado damper,

all it takes is a few wacks with a pickle fork and it will come out.
agesilaus
Explorer III
Feb 17, 2016
OK as a follow up. The pickle fork arrived. I got it inserted an whacked away with my 3 lb machinist hammer, and whacked and whacked and whacked. I was underneath the truck with maybe 6 inches of clearance. After whack 80 or 90 it finally popped off...geez. And then, Parkinson as always got the final laugh, the box with the new damper didn't have a nut and the Ford nut was the right diameter, 12mm, but the wrong pitch. I had to wait for the wife to get home to finish up.

The last shock came right off with the right tool for that job, a 21 mm combo ratchet wrench. Amazing difference in the ride quality.

Thanks for the advise folks.