Questions on towing with a lifted truck

BenK wrote:

mich800 wrote:
Ok, passive aggressive questions aside. You lift a truck to fit larger tires to improve ground clearance, better approach and departure angles and improve off-road performance. I will not speculate if the OP has this in mind or just a fashion statement.

Misnomer that lifting will gain ground Clarence alone...it does increase
the high centering point and the approach/departure angles

Ground clearance is only changed by larger dia tires (dia increase
divided by 0.5). As the pumpkin is the dictator of ground clearance and the other junk OEMs now mount underneath the axle tubes

Curious how this kit keeps the drive line Z angles to keep the U-Joints
happy and live long...unless this is a body lift only

On the tires and their 'E' (126) load rating...that is only half of
that equation...the wheels must likewise be rated for that load plus
some level of margin

Hope you are not looking at 'true' bead locker wheels...they no longer
have a DOT approval for pavement and only off road usage. If just the
ornamental bead locker screws on the rim...they weaken the wheel rim
significantly...more so for these higher class tires

Plus to do it 'best'...you must increase the track to help control the
now higher CG. My Sub's wheels are 3 inches wider in track to have
a total of about 10.5" wider track over OEM, with NO LIFT

I have no problem saw-zawing the wheel wells and do it cleanly & paint
the now exposed raw metal

The rev's per mile changes and you have to make up for in the 'effective
diff ratio, but most miss that there is a large increase in rotating
mass. This will wear out the suspension quicker and ride quality will
go down

You 'MUST' allow the tire shop to place weights on both sides of the
wheel rims. Any balance problems will eat your hub bearings in a hurry

How fast do you drive? How do you drive? Both pavement and off roading
That will be limited by the setup you are contemplating