R-Vision Trail-lite build quality

I had a 2004 TT, and loved it! We never had a leak, and towed it all over the place as well as used it on a seasonal lot. I sold it several years ago after my DH died, and it is still being used with no problems whatsoever.

As I recall it was aluminum studded, with limited wood. Floors are sandwiched, and can start to feel "soft" if there's a leak, although I never experienced it.

Good luck with your decision!

Back in 2002 the RV Consumer Group, www.rv.org, gave Trail-lite average ratings; not bad and not excellent. They may have more up-to-date information.

We have a 2004 R-Vision Trail Lite 213 B+ that we purchased with 8400 miles in April 2012. Excellent build quality for the price point. Laminated sidewalls with aluminum framing. "Crowned" roof system causes water to run off. We took it on a 11,000 mile trip to Alaska this past summer without any problems with the RV. We took a plant tour of the former RV-Vision plant in Warsaw IN in 2002 when we were thinking about downsizing from our 28' C due to my health concerns, very impressed compared to other plants we've visited.

A friend of ours has a 2003 25 foot version of the R-Vision Trail Lite.

She has been happy with it for the 2 years she has owned it.

The one problem we found about one month ago, is the location of the house-battery in her model. The battery was loosing charge and getting old.

We went looking for her house-battery in order to check it with my multi-meter to check the voltage and use the clamp-ammeter to check to see if battery could hold a charge, getting charge from engine-alternator, getting charge from the converter/charger while plugged into shore-power (or generator).

Her only way to check to date was the panel-meter.

I found her battery-disconnect switch okay. I opened up the battery access door an lo and behold the battery was hung under the chassis about 2 to 3 feet beyond the door. Absolutely useless for getting at the battery-terminals. No paperwork explaining how to remove the battery, and no clearance to squeeze underneath the MH to check it.

It looks like the MH needs to be raised on a heavy-duty lift, or driven over an oil change pit to even check the battery or add water to it.

OP here,

Thank you all for your input. I'm sad to say that this 25 foot Class A was in very bad shape. I had high hopes for it, but as often is the case the marketing was better than the reality.

Just for clarity, I missed the title talking about their Class A.

I was referring to their Class B+ models. There are many more of those in our area. We have rarely seen their Class A models.

Not wanting to hijack this thread, but we have found a 2005 R-Vision Trail Cruiser c21rbh that we like very much. Only problem is the floor has some soft spots just inside the door. No indication that it has leaked. Seems more like the sandwiched floor has just gotten soft with age and use. How big of a deal is this? I'm fairly handy and wondering if this is something that I could fix myself. I've read the stories about needing to lift the walls, etc. but that sounds like way too much trouble to support a sagging floor. Anybody tried this repair themselves? How tough is it?

If the floor is a composite structure, it's going to be a lot of work. You'll probably have to redesign the failed flooring system since the original wasn't durable.

One solution to a sagging floor is to go underneath the rig and weld angle iron to support the floor. Again the price has to be right and the access has to be there.

I replaced the floor section by the door this summer. From the top, cut out the luaun and foam back to an inch over the I-beam. Put in 2x6 PT in place of the foam with ext. grade plywood on either side screwed and glued together. Took a couple hours. Definitely the sturdiest part of the floor, now.