Forum Discussion

swimmer_spe's avatar
swimmer_spe
Explorer
Nov 23, 2014

Raising an older trailer

I have a 1975 Terry 21' bumper pull trailer.

I have not decided what I will do to it. It is old, and the floor is rotten. I know I might be able to replace it.

If I am to keep it, I need to get it higher off the ground.

The axle is not the issue, the bumper is. On one of my favourite trails into a great camping site, the rear of the trailer ends up dragging.

Can I simply unbolt the u-bolts, drop the axle below the springs, and then put new u-bolts on?

I know, they sell kits, but I am wondering if I could just do it the way above?

9 Replies

  • 69_Avion's avatar
    69_Avion
    Explorer
    Nov 27, 2014
    Shadow Catcher wrote:
    One of my concerns was ground clearance, the other concern is center of gravity. If you raise the entire trailer you mess up the dynamics. Two alternatives a skid plate at the rear of the trailer and air shocks/airbag to temporarily raise the trailer, and incidentally improve the suspension.
    I have a Dexter axle I may eventually switch to a Flexride which is adjustable.
    http://www.ucfamerica.com/flexiride.html

    When I make trailers with rubber torsion axles, Flexiride is all that I buy. The simple splines for adjusting the torsion arm angle is really worth having.
  • Shadow_Catcher's avatar
    Shadow_Catcher
    Explorer
    Nov 24, 2014
    One of my concerns was ground clearance, the other concern is center of gravity. If you raise the entire trailer you mess up the dynamics. Two alternatives a skid plate at the rear of the trailer and air shocks/airbag to temporarily raise the trailer, and incidentally improve the suspension.
    I have a Dexter axle I may eventually switch to a Flexride which is adjustable.
    http://www.ucfamerica.com/flexiride.html
  • RVcircus's avatar
    RVcircus
    Explorer II
    Nov 23, 2014
    I recently installed the Dexter kit and took about 4 hours like mentioned. I considered just welding on new perched and U-bolts, but the built in adjusters on the Dexter perches really made the install quicker. Personally if I did it again I'd go with the Dexter axle flip kits again.
  • greende's avatar
    greende
    Explorer II
    Nov 23, 2014
    O-B is correct. We call it "Axle Flipping" but in reality you need to install a new spring perch on the top of the axle tube.
  • swimmer_spe's avatar
    swimmer_spe
    Explorer
    Nov 23, 2014
    Old-Biscuit wrote:
    NO!

    Axle tube is bowed upward to properly set camber



    Here is some info for you........LINK


    Thank you for the link. That is what I figured on doing.
  • swimmer_spe's avatar
    swimmer_spe
    Explorer
    Nov 23, 2014
    Old-Biscuit wrote:
    Yep.......

    Called an 'axle flip'

    Leaf springs relocated to top of axle vs being on bottom of axle.

    Should have new spring perch welded to top of axle tube so leaf pack 'sits' on axle properly (with locating pin) and then NEW U-BOLTS




    Could I also just rotate the axle (possibly put the right side on the left to make the brakes work right) so that I do not need to do any welding?
  • Old-Biscuit's avatar
    Old-Biscuit
    Explorer III
    Nov 23, 2014
    Yep.......

    Called an 'axle flip'

    Leaf springs relocated to top of axle vs being on bottom of axle.

    Should have new spring perch welded to top of axle tube so leaf pack 'sits' on axle properly (with locating pin) and then NEW U-BOLTS


  • oldmattb's avatar
    oldmattb
    Explorer
    Nov 23, 2014
    That is what I did with a trailer we had for a while. There were three tricks involved:
    1. Get it way off the ground
    2. Undo one end of each leaf spring to get the brake drum out - It would not fit through the opening
    3. Drill one hole to accommodate a pin that went between the axle and leaf spring.

    Without knowing these things, and never having done one, it took me about four hours. Dirty and heavy work, but no rocket science. I needed no new parts.

    Matt B

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