Although the address is now Ewe-stun, have over 30 years of using chains in the mud, ice, and snow.
- If you're only getting chains because of the potential requirement to "have chains" (and that's a good enough reason), I'd suggest the cable chains since they'll satisfy the "have chains" law and the owners manual limits;
- If you're getting chains because you'll be going on limited service roads (i.e. no regular snow plow etc), I'd get the "best" you can fit on your P/U's rear wheels (since those wheels won't rotate side-to-side); If you'll need traction, you'll need real chains, not cables;
- If you are intending to drive through the gnarly winter conditions no matter what, I'd suggest 3 sets of chains: 1 set for the p/u rear wheels after checking clearance; 1 set for the front wheels (remember this is if you're driving through no matter what) that is appropriately sized for clearance....since the front wheel chains are mostly to help with braking and steering, cables might be OK; and 1 set for the trailer wheels (re: braking)...given that the trailer wheels go roundy round and not sideways, chains here can be as aggressive as the p/u rear wheels as long as clearance allows.
- For any chains, the baddest-strongest tighteners are your friend.
- For cables, there are limitations, but for real chains, you want to put them on so tight that it is everything you can do to get them on. Then stop in a mile or two and put them on a notch or two tighter (I'm referring here to the chains themselves, not the tighteners, but those should be adjusted to)
- For any chains, remember that you shouldn't drive over XX mph with them (see what the tire guys and chain guys say for the particular XX, for me it's about 30 mph); if you are able to drive over XX mph, then you don't need chains IMNSO.
- When you need them, you need them, but chains don't take the place of normal prudent winter driving.
....these work http://www.lacledechain.com/images/stories/traction/trucksuv/resingletruckXL.jpg