rebuild of 1999 Fleetwood Elkhorn 10W
We purchased a 1999 Fleetwood camper and now realise it is a fixer upper. I need to replace the rubber roof and some of plywood on the roof as well. there are also sidewall issues which will require...
Forum Discussion
Right now I'm replacing the furnace on a '99 Adventurer 810, the original squealed like stuck pig, which made sleeping problematic. The fun of old campers.
First lesson : The 1/4 interior plywood is the main structural component in the walls. Leave it alone as much as possible.
If the 3/4" plywood tub on the bottom is rotten, walk away, you have your money in appliances.
Second lesson : you repair a stick and tin from the outside, the aluminum siding was the last piece put on. Pull off the vinyl strip by removing the stop screw at the bottom. I replaced mine with new strips . Pull the trim by removing the 1/4" headed #8 trailer screws with a nut driver bit in an impact or drill. Pry it gently off with a putty knife and a casing bar. Save it. For the siding, you start at bottom and pry the staples with a tack lifter , a screwdriver with a bent end, and pull with a needle nose vise grips. It's pretty easy.
Now you will see the rotten wood.
Don't despair, it is not that difficult to replace. There are two magic tools, a Fein multicrafter and Kreg jig. They allow you to cut out the rotten wood surgically and splice in good stuff.
Besides common wood working tools, like a jig saw and a table saw, you will need an air powered narrow crown stapler to put your siding back on.
When I put the corner molding on I use Proflex caulking, I don't want to do this again in 2 years, and #10 stainless screws. The one size larger bites in the original holes. Use Self Leveling for the roof vents.
I did all the sealing, the roof too, the wings, and the back end in three weeks on my hunting camper.
It's much better sealed than new and when I fit that 19,000 BTU furnace, warmer, too.
First lesson : The 1/4 interior plywood is the main structural component in the walls. Leave it alone as much as possible.
If the 3/4" plywood tub on the bottom is rotten, walk away, you have your money in appliances.
Second lesson : you repair a stick and tin from the outside, the aluminum siding was the last piece put on. Pull off the vinyl strip by removing the stop screw at the bottom. I replaced mine with new strips . Pull the trim by removing the 1/4" headed #8 trailer screws with a nut driver bit in an impact or drill. Pry it gently off with a putty knife and a casing bar. Save it. For the siding, you start at bottom and pry the staples with a tack lifter , a screwdriver with a bent end, and pull with a needle nose vise grips. It's pretty easy.
Now you will see the rotten wood.
Don't despair, it is not that difficult to replace. There are two magic tools, a Fein multicrafter and Kreg jig. They allow you to cut out the rotten wood surgically and splice in good stuff.
Besides common wood working tools, like a jig saw and a table saw, you will need an air powered narrow crown stapler to put your siding back on.
When I put the corner molding on I use Proflex caulking, I don't want to do this again in 2 years, and #10 stainless screws. The one size larger bites in the original holes. Use Self Leveling for the roof vents.
I did all the sealing, the roof too, the wings, and the back end in three weeks on my hunting camper.
It's much better sealed than new and when I fit that 19,000 BTU furnace, warmer, too.
