Recently Purchased

If you are wondering about the Awning setup.
I mounted two adjustable flag holders to the side of the trailer
in order to make it more wind proof and to not be tripping on the
poles and stakes going in and out.

The setscrew keeps it from popping out in windy conditions.

Frank

Finally the pictures.



The floor plan

Frank

Thanks for the trailer specs info - I was having trouble trying to visualize your trailer length...

I think the BRAKE issue is a DOT requirement based on the trailer weight. This various from state to state. That is is the way it is in my state anyway... There is NO WAY my 4200lb POPUP could make it safely down the roadways without working trailer brakes.

I also would not be able to get a safety inspection sticker on my trailer in my state without trailer brakes. They also have to be working haha...

Roy Ken

popupcamping wrote:
For me ,to get a new axle, brake controller(which I hate the thought of mounting in my vehicle), battery and mounting and all the wiring and my time, I think I will stick with what is working now.

This is the kind of thinking that gets us in trouble more often than not. It's the times when it all goes wrong and I don't have all of the safety or backup equipment I need that is the worst kinds of situations. It is similar to insurance - you never expect to need it but when you do, you are thankful you DO have it. The big difference here is that having or not having insurance generally does not affect other people in the heat of the moment. Having or not having trailer brakes CAN harm other people beyond the occupants of our TVs.

As for what brake setup you need, you will have to verify the model number and subsequent capacity of the axle. There's a better than good chance that it is a Dexter axle. It should have a label on the axle tube, often on the top side of the axle tube. My guess is that it is a 3,500 pound axle. If so, the appropriate kit for you would be a 10" assembly, Dexter Brake Assemblies PDF, K23-454-00 and K23-455-00 but verify, along with a hub-drum kit if your hub does not already have an integrated drum, Hub PDF, like K-08-247-94. Again, verify all of these are the proper items for your particular set up.

See https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer_Brakes-sf-Electric_Drum_Brakes.aspx for a list of brake parts. Since my hubs already have drums, I just needed the 10" LH and RH brake assemblies (Code 23-26 and 23-27 respectively, $36 each). If you need hubs with drums, see http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer_Hubs_and_Drums.aspx

Add to it a break-away switch (if you have a PUP battery already) for $7-$10, or one with a dedicated battery ($30-$50), brake controller like a Prodigy P2 and appropriate wiring.

With all of that above, you're about $325 with shipping plus misc. supplies.

If I hadn't sold my first PUP before realizing the importance of trailer brakes, I would have added them, and it was a relatively light weight trailer at 1,600 pounds. There's no guarantee in life that this will or won't save me in a bad situation, but age is teaching me to at least set myself up for success instead of hoping "as is" works well enough, especially with my precious cargo aboard, let alone thinking of others' safety.

The brake mounting plates are there, I've looked.
The factory says that the only way that they can do brakes is to order a new axle with brakes, install, etc.

I can do it with aftermarket parts for less. ($500.00+/-

I just asked about opinions.
Have never had a panic brake situation. (YET)

Looks like it's going to be a cool weather project.

Now the next question?
7" or 10" setup?

Frank

bondebond wrote:
If the mounting plates are not there, I would consider fixing that as well. A trailer/axle shop can resolve that.

Likely cheaper to purchase a complete axle assembly with the brakes. If you feel like spending all that cash on brakes go for it. Whatever floats your boat.

For me ,to get a new axle, brake controller(which I hate the thought of mounting in my vehicle), battery and mounting and all the wiring and my time, I think I will stick with what is working now.

Have fun

With a GVWR of almost 3,000 pounds, I would definitely look to see if there are the square mounting plates right next to the axle hubs that are for brakes. If they exist on your current axle, it is a fairly simple matter, DIY, to add them. If the mounting plates are not there, I would consider fixing that as well. A trailer/axle shop can resolve that.

Regardless, I would put brakes on - without a doubt.

Yes, in IMHO, you need brakes on anything over 2000 lb., especially with a small tow vehicle.

fmattox73 wrote:
Couldn't figure out how to upload picture or floor plan drawing.

My floor plan is different than factory layout. The stove/sink is
centered on the door and I have the cabinets on the right.

Factory spec is:

MODEL 4124

Dry Hitch Weight 219 lbs. (99 kg)
Axle Weight 1,892 lbs. (858 kg)
Unloaded Vehicle Weight 2,111 lbs. (958 kg)
GVWR 2,999 lbs. (1,360 kg)
Cargo Carrying Capacity 888 lbs. (403 kg)
Box Size 12' (3.7 m)
Exterior Open Length 23' 10" (7.3 m)
Exterior Closed Length 15' 10" (4.8 m)
Exterior Closed Height 4' 8" (1.4 m)
Exterior Width 85" (2.2 m)

NO Brakes. Anybody think that I need them?
NO Slide(s)

GMC Transmission is Combo Auto and rocker switch stick shift.
I get fairly good engine braking off the manual side of tranny
with electronic shifting.

Frank

I'd say that is on the edge of needing trailer brakes but that can depend on the tow vehicle. The downshifting and engine braking is nice if you have the space and time. Where trailer brakes really pay off is in emergency stops and they'll help save wear on the the TV brakes as well. Enjoy!

I don't have any brakes on my Flagstaff 208 (1737 dry with 868 CCC) and I tow with a Rav4. Have been all over many thousands of miles over mountains of NH and have had to panic stop because of the odd idiot driver ahead and have never had an issue.