Refrigerator in 2014 Palomino tent trailer is hotwired

Seems to me that the obvious solution is to just install a "Fuse" on the battery.
Pull the fuse after each trip to save the battery charge.
I thought fuses were standard equipment even on the basic setups.

Frank

"Thank You" and an update:

We want to thank you all so much for your responses. The wealth of information and tips here on the forum are much appreciated! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and taking the time to post.

We wrote to the manufacturer about the fridge, haven't received a reply as yet. We aren't expecting much in way of a response but we wanted to register a complaint about the installation of that particular fridge in a Tent Camper and also about the dealer's lack of knowledge of the problem and the lack of any operating instructions in the owner's manual.

My husband (who is brand new to RVing world, BTW) had to troubleshoot the reason for the battery drain. It was a stressful few days of phone calls to the dealer, removing fuses, testing if the battery was charging at all, more calls to the dealer and finally removing and unplugging the fridge. I know this is an entry level camper but to us $9,000 it is not small change.

We are considering replacing the Koolatron with an old-school ice box such as this:
http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Ice_Box_Small_p/vts-712.htm
We will post a photo if we install it. DH is also adding a knife switch to the battery to turn off everything (lights, radio, etc) while the camper is in our garage.

The good news is we are having a great time planning/doing small mods to the camper - things like hanging a flashlight by the door, velcroing a small first aid kit for easy access, velcroing cushions to seats, figuring out storage solutions, etc.

We actually took "her" out this week for the first time and absolutely loved it! We brought our ice chest along and it worked quite well for 3 days - just plopped in atop the picnic table in the shade. We camped at Idyllwild Park, only 1 hour away from home. It is a gorgeous park! Almost had it all to ourselves. Huge granite boulders, tall pines, tons of birds, bushy tailed gray squirrels (our dog Maggie's first squirrel sightings) and a pack of coyotes we didn't see but heard - so eerie when they were howling together at 2 a.m. Can't wait to go out again soon. The heater works like a charm to take the chill off the cold mornings.

Hebrew National Brats, grilled, cut-up, mixed with a can of Ranch Beans and a can of Pork and Beans and heated over the campfire. There is no better eating. :) Except for breakfast - pancakes, eggs, sausage, maple syrup - heaven!!!

Cheers,
Linda

Old-Biscuit wrote:


OP has 'buyers remorse' and comes on forum to bad mouth the mfg.
MFg. provided an entry level product which OP purchased eyes-wide open yet blames the mfg.
OP stated "However Palomino is the loser in the long-term. When and if the time comes for us to trade up, Palomino has lost us as a potential customer. Word of mouth, reputation is everything."

I questioned OP if they had checked it out and they stated YES.

The 'fridge' is just an electric cooler with just a thermostat control knob. Nothing more. Easily seen prior to purchase.

Just don't see where Palomino did wrong but they got the blame.

Common theme now a days is to point blame and not take personal responsibility of ones own actions/decision.

Rude.......YES but it wasn't my fault!

Forest River misrepresented the product as a refrigerator, and not a cooler, and installed it incorrectly so that no adequate air flow could be had for the "LIMITED" cooling that this cooler offers. On top of that, offers no switching for the continuously running fan, which effectively drains the battery.

A less deceptive "ICE COOLER" would had been more useful and safer considering the improper installation and the lack to control at 40 degrees or under in 100+ degrees heat.

From what I can see it's not even a true refrigerator, it's a thermoelectric cooler that only cools about 54 degrees below ambient temp. I had a Coleman like this and it's absolute garbage. By using this, you are just waiting for food poisoning. Plus it needs to be free standing as the fans pull the heat out of the unit. In an enclosure, there's no fresh cool air to pull into the unit.

Pull it out, sell it and put a standard ice cooler in it's place. Just another Forest River FAIL. Other brands use a standard ice cooler and a 3-way ammonia absorption refrigerator as an option.

All it has is a fan that runs continuous and it will run your battery down as if you left a fan going in the camper.

Here it is.

OP, pull that thermoelectric cooler out and use the open space as storage.

Get a cheap dorm "COMPRESSOR" refrigerator and put it on the cabinet top and use it. This is likely the "BEST" option even over an ammonia absorption refrigerator since no maker installs them correctly. They all require a large space above for adequate air flow which no maker allows for with such low walls in the pop ups.

My 1.9 CF ammonia absorption fridges in my previous Forest River and Starcraft campers could never keep temps down to 40 degrees at 100+ degree heat without a lot of add on fans. Then recovery time was still very long. A compressor refrigerator is the best and what I'd do if I went back to a Pop Up. You need a ice cooler for traveling obviously but we used one anyhow as it was such a pain to setup just to load refrigerator and to unload it.

A compressor refrigerator is your best bet!

BTW, my refrigerator in my TT operates and recovers just as good as my home refrigerator thanks to it's correct install with correct air flow.

bondebond wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Dakota98 wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:
1 1/2 hours should have been plenty of time/opportunity for 'how does this work, how does that work, show me.......etc.

Buyer beware/entry level......has nothing to do with whether it is a 'decent' unit or not.
Buyer beware..means ask/inquire PRIOR to purchase
Entry level....means it is a basic functional unit lacking all the bells and whistles.
Using a entry level Newmar Class A as reference when talking pop-up tent camper is disingenuous

You bought a basic functional camper and are now unhappy with some of it's features......upgrade the fridge to the Dometic fridge that is an 'option'
Course that will cost more.

Many "first time buyers" of an RV don't even know what questions to ask & the Dealer (sales person) isn't going to mention the negative features of what they are selling, entry level or not. I think the 12 volt system is probably the most misunderstood feature of an RV. Many of us that have owned one for a while, didn't really learn about it, but through experience.

OP is NOT a 'first time RV buyer".....just a first time pop-up.
They had a Newmar Class A previously.
Not noobies.
And a quick glance at that 'cooler' would have been a clue that there isn't much in the way of controls........only knob on it is a thermostat setting. Period

I still don't see how any of that justifies being rude. You provide a lot of good information and bring a lot to the forums. I don't see how ridiculing someone is beneficial to them or the forum at large. It creates a hostile environment and quickly runs off people. If not to help and share information, why post?

OP has 'buyers remorse' and comes on forum to bad mouth the mfg.
MFg. provided an entry level product which OP purchased eyes-wide open yet blames the mfg.
OP stated "However Palomino is the loser in the long-term. When and if the time comes for us to trade up, Palomino has lost us as a potential customer. Word of mouth, reputation is everything."

I questioned OP if they had checked it out and they stated YES.

The 'fridge' is just an electric cooler with just a thermostat control knob. Nothing more. Easily seen prior to purchase.

Just don't see where Palomino did wrong but they got the blame.

Common theme now a days is to point blame and not take personal responsibility of ones own actions/decision.

Rude.......YES but it wasn't my fault!

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Dakota98 wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:
1 1/2 hours should have been plenty of time/opportunity for 'how does this work, how does that work, show me.......etc.

Buyer beware/entry level......has nothing to do with whether it is a 'decent' unit or not.
Buyer beware..means ask/inquire PRIOR to purchase
Entry level....means it is a basic functional unit lacking all the bells and whistles.
Using a entry level Newmar Class A as reference when talking pop-up tent camper is disingenuous

You bought a basic functional camper and are now unhappy with some of it's features......upgrade the fridge to the Dometic fridge that is an 'option'
Course that will cost more.

Many "first time buyers" of an RV don't even know what questions to ask & the Dealer (sales person) isn't going to mention the negative features of what they are selling, entry level or not. I think the 12 volt system is probably the most misunderstood feature of an RV. Many of us that have owned one for a while, didn't really learn about it, but through experience.

OP is NOT a 'first time RV buyer".....just a first time pop-up.
They had a Newmar Class A previously.
Not noobies.
And a quick glance at that 'cooler' would have been a clue that there isn't much in the way of controls........only knob on it is a thermostat setting. Period

I still don't see how any of that justifies being rude. You provide a lot of good information and bring a lot to the forums. I don't see how ridiculing someone is beneficial to them or the forum at large. It creates a hostile environment and quickly runs off people. If not to help and share information, why post?

It would appear that the short-term solution is to remove the 12Vdc fuse from the fuse panel when not in use.
The long-term solution I would propose is to install a 3-way switch that allows you to select 120Vac, OFF, or 12Vdc operation.

Dakota98 wrote:

patperry2766 wrote:
cut-off switch

This is all you need. This article demonstrates two different types. The one pictured in step #1 & 2 can be mounted to the top of the battery case.

Unfortunately, that is not going to solve the issue. A cut-off switch will cut "all" 12 volt power to the the RV, including lights. It's only useful function is when it's in storage. A "simple" switch or quick disconnect on the positive or negative input of the refer will.

This is true. I was strictly thinking of turning the power off during storage...I didn't take turning off the power while still using the camper into account.

Dakota98 wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:
1 1/2 hours should have been plenty of time/opportunity for 'how does this work, how does that work, show me.......etc.

Buyer beware/entry level......has nothing to do with whether it is a 'decent' unit or not.
Buyer beware..means ask/inquire PRIOR to purchase
Entry level....means it is a basic functional unit lacking all the bells and whistles.
Using a entry level Newmar Class A as reference when talking pop-up tent camper is disingenuous

You bought a basic functional camper and are now unhappy with some of it's features......upgrade the fridge to the Dometic fridge that is an 'option'
Course that will cost more.

Many "first time buyers" of an RV don't even know what questions to ask & the Dealer (sales person) isn't going to mention the negative features of what they are selling, entry level or not. I think the 12 volt system is probably the most misunderstood feature of an RV. Many of us that have owned one for a while, didn't really learn about it, but through experience.

OP is NOT a 'first time RV buyer".....just a first time pop-up.
They had a Newmar Class A previously.
Not noobies.
And a quick glance at that 'cooler' would have been a clue that there isn't much in the way of controls........only knob on it is a thermostat setting. Period

patperry2766 wrote:
cut-off switch

This is all you need. This article demonstrates two different types. The one pictured in step #1 & 2 can be mounted to the top of the battery case.

Unfortunately, that is not going to solve the issue. A cut-off switch will cut "all" 12 volt power to the the RV, including lights. It's only useful function is when it's in storage. A "simple" switch or quick disconnect on the positive or negative input of the refer will.