brulaz wrote:
otrfun wrote:
...
As I mentioned previously it's very possible your luck lies with the fact your trailers only need 7-8v to work properly, not that your Ram OEM IBC is working any "better" than those of us that require 12v for proper braking.
It would be helpful to know what voltage your Ram OEM IBC is capable of producing.
Doesn't the RAM adjust the voltage down depending upon your speed? Thought that's what stopped all the low-speed jerking in town.
With my 2011 F150's IBC you couldn't get much voltage out when parked. But when moving the brakes worked fine. Haven't checked the Ram, but would expect something similar?
I agree, under realworld driving conditions voltage will constantly fluctuate from 0 to the maximum voltage/current capability of the brake controller.
My comment is referring to the absolute maximum voltage capability of a given brake controller. This voltage reflects the brake controller's maximum voltage/current delivery under emergency braking conditions. This reading is typically determined by setting the gain to 10 (or maximum), then checking the voltage while applying maximum braking manually with the brake controller's slide control.
Ideally, a brake controller should be capable of producing
up to 12v under maximum, emergency braking conditions. Unfortunately, this is not the case with many Ram OEM intregrated brake controllers. Many of these IBCs are only capable of producing
up to 7-8v under maximum, emergency braking conditions. 7-8v may be enough voltage to provide safe, all-around, braking with some trailers, but other trailers may require up to 12v to brake safely (especially under emergency conditions).
