Very disappointed in the Ram OEM brake controller on my new 2016 3500 (build date 8/15). After reading all the threads complaining about the Ram OEM brake controller, I was so hoping my new '16 would be the exception . . . unfortunately, no-go.When the breakaway switch is activated on most trailers it applies maximum current to each brake---typically 3.0-3.5a. Ideally, one should be able to obtain similar current using the truck's brake controller (OEM or aftermarket with the slide switch in the maximum position).With the OEM brake controller on my '16 Ram 3500 set to "heavy electric" and the gain set to maximum (10) I only get 2.0a at each brake assembly. I get 3.3a with the trailer's breakaway switch activated. FWIW, I get slightly better current (2.3a) with the OEM brake controller set to "heavy electric with hydraulic". 2.0a - 2.3a is enough to feel the brakes working, but not nearly enough current for an emergency braking situation.I got similar readings when I checked the OEM brake controller current on my BIL's Ram 2500. Some will say we both have bad grounds; however, when we hookup a truck to either of our trailers with an aftermarket brake controller we get the full 3++ amps. In my opinion it's not a ground problem. For those that do have an OEM Ram brake controller that works "properly", it would be interesting to compare current readings. It's possible that some trailers only need ~2.0 amps to brake "properly". Unfortunately, others like myself need the full 3.0++ amps to brake properly in an emergency.So, unless, there's something I'm missing in terms of adjusting the Ram OEM brake controller, or there's some kind of fix involving a flash update, it appears I'll be forced to install an aftermarket brake controller. For those who have replaced their Ram OEM brake controller with an aftermarket brake controller, where is the brake controller pigtail/plug located? When replacing the OEM brake controller with an aftermarket, is there any kind of dealer flash required or is it simply plug and play? Thanks.

I can't comment on the amount of amps you are getting to the brakes, but I will tell you about my problem and solution I came up with on RAM.I would periodically get a "trailer disconnected" or "check trailer wiring" warning. The lights would still work, but no brakes. I had two separate trailer repair people look at the trailer and didn't find anything. Also had Dodge check the truck, and they said it must be the trailer.I finally found a trailer repair guy that told me he sees that in many new vehicles (not just RAM), and the solution was to replace wiring plug on the trailer. I was skeptical, but willing to give it a try. And he was right.When I got a new boat with the 7 round RV type plug, I had sporadic problems with the lights. Reverse lights didn't always work, nor did running lights. I switched the plug on that trailer, and no problems since.I don't know what it is, but my truck does not like the RV plug that comes on many trailers. Change it out to an aftermarket plug (that looks the same to me) and problems gone.Maybe that is your problem as well.

I'm researching right now and am considering ordering a truck without the IBC and just using a P3...Especially since these reports in the Ram and there have been several in the Tundra forums concerning the new IBC coming in the Tundra's...But if it's just the vehicle side connector that seems to be the problem then it may be worth taking a look at the connector and ensuring all the wires are actually making good contact with the 7 way RV connector. Should be just a few screws that hold the connectors down....if the darn thing isn't sealed and impossible to get into. Thanks!Jeremiah

My 12 Ram 2500 had a goofy TBC from the get go. I had it replaced under warranty in the 1st 2 weeks. The dealer had to buy a special plug that they stick in the trucks 7 pin plug to see if the TBC was working right. Even the new one was goofy. So I bought a cheap Tekonsha Primus IQ. It works like it should. Brakes can lock up if the gains set to high.I know it's not the trailer brakes because on a previous TT with a different truck 10 F150)that had a built in TBC the TT brakes worked flawless. Then when I hooked up the Ram they didn't work as well. Also our current 5th wheel doesn't work as well either.I was at the dealer getting some stuff checked out on the Ram and they said they had a TBC re-flash that I hadn't had yet. So I got it done.Will be heading out this weekend for our 1st trip of the year. I will get a chance to try the re-flash. One thing I have noticed is that the Rams TBC seems to work a bit differently. I can't set it up like you normally would. However I have switched back and forth on occasion to try some ides. Anyway, when it's set on 5.5-6.5 gain on light electric and you slide the manual lever over it won't feel like you have much for braking. But if you're driving down the road and slam the brakes like you're in a panic stop they will lock up. So I don't know what type of braking parameters Ram is using, but they're not the same as Fords.

I still need to bleed my RV brakes to eliminate any other problem. My brakes work no where as good as my 11HO RAM Dually towing my 36' MS. The controller was a MaxBrake. It worked GREAT. The brakes come on good but don't come on hard when needed. I am hoping I have air in my brake lines. If I have no improvement after bleeding I may look into the MaxBrake. Sounds like the factory controller works great from 12-14.

My 2014 OEM works better then my old P3. I haven't heard any problems with the OEM but I guess it's on the Cunnins sites?

Replace OEM Ram Brake Controller w/Aftermarket BC??

Searching_Ut
Explorer
Apr 02, 2016
I almost crashed because of the design defect in the 2015 Ram IBC. I've tried to get it fixed twice by my dealer, and they claim it works as designed. I've got one more appointment scheduled and hope they can fix the other issues I currently have with my truck but am almost certain they will refuse to admit to the defect with the IBC so I'm also working other avenues for recourse. My opinion is there will be some serious mishaps because of this.

As for the current reading you got, that is about right. If you put a scope on the circuit you will see that it uses a pulse width modulated signal, with a max duty cycle of approximately 65 percent. I've read that Chrysler claims it will give full output if you're above 35mph but I've tried it twice with a parallel cable run to the cab and hitting the brakes on a deserted road at 45mph and the output duty cycle was still only 65 percent with the IBC brakes set to heavy electric and gain on 10. My 2011 RAM was pretty much the opposite in that the brakes would apply more braking than I wanted in the snow even with the gain turned to the lowest setting.

As for why you haven't seen more complaints about this I find that interesting as well. I tend to change my settings based on the conditions I'm driving in and especially in the mountains I often like to set them fairly high in some conditions. With all three trailers I've towed with my 2015 it's blaringly obvious the max braking is seriously limited. Hooking up a scope makes it very obvious it's doing just what it feels like it's doing.
45Ricochet
Explorer
Apr 02, 2016
Cummins12V98 wrote:
I am hoping I have air in my brake lines.

Me too :B
Just following the thread.
Ram seems to have had this problem with the IBC since the get go. Wonder how Chris likes his compared to his old tap in system?
drittal
Explorer
Apr 02, 2016
This issue has been going on since the 2015 model year.

Repeat, ONLY 2015+ are affected.

Starting in 2015, Ram went to an ITBM that limits duty cycle to about 70% of full at speed below 30mph.

Many of us have filed complaints with the NHTSA. Many of us have taken our trucKS in to the dealer to be told the ITBM is working properly and it's our trailer brakes are the issue. Take our trailer to dealer to find the brakes are in perfect working order.

The problem arises when at these lower speeds, the reduced duty cycle doesn't provide adequate voltage/amperage to larger electric brakes to achieve full stopping power.

An electrical engineer on www.ramforum.com built a test rig and using a scope has documented this 70% duty cycle as compared to 2014 and prior Ram and vs a P3 controller. He built this test rig after having his RV push him into an intersecrion.

We have passed this information on to a Ram representative. So far they have acknowledged that this could be a potential issue, but have said it could be a while before anything comes about in the way of a fix, citing "these things take time."
otrfun
Explorer II
Apr 02, 2016
Searching_Ut wrote:
I almost crashed because of the design defect in the 2015 Ram IBC. I've tried to get it fixed twice by my dealer, and they claim it works as designed. I've got one more appointment scheduled and hope they can fix the other issues I currently have with my truck but am almost certain they will refuse to admit to the defect with the IBC so I'm also working other avenues for recourse. My opinion is there will be some serious mishaps because of this.

As for the current reading you got, that is about right. If you put a scope on the circuit you will see that it uses a pulse width modulated signal, with a max duty cycle of approximately 65 percent. I've read that Chrysler claims it will give full output if you're above 35mph but I've tried it twice with a parallel cable run to the cab and hitting the brakes on a deserted road at 45mph and the output duty cycle was still only 65 percent with the IBC brakes set to heavy electric and gain on 10. My 2011 RAM was pretty much the opposite in that the brakes would apply more braking than I wanted in the snow even with the gain turned to the lowest setting.

As for why you haven't seen more complaints about this I find that interesting as well. I tend to change my settings based on the conditions I'm driving in and especially in the mountains I often like to set them fairly high in some conditions. With all three trailers I've towed with my 2015 it's blaringly obvious the max braking is seriously limited. Hooking up a scope makes it very obvious it's doing just what it feels like it's doing.
Thanks for chiming in, Searching_Ut.

Agree, 65 percent sounds about right. Breakaway switch generates 3.3a on each of the 4 brake drums on my 5th wheel. Total current, 13.2a. The Ram IBC only generates 2.3a maximum with it set to "heavy electric with hydraulic" or 2a maximum with it set to "heavy electric". In both cases gain was set to 10 (maximum). When I used the manual slider or applied the brakes hard the LCD bar graph on the EVIC went to the far right indicating maximum current. Unfortunately, not near enough braking (current) to be safe when using the manual slider or during normal operation on the road.

I'm going to give the dealer once chance to address the issue. If that attempt fails, I'll probably install a P3. I was aware of the IBC issues before I purchased my Ram 3500 in Feb. I could have easily purchased it without the IBC, but hung on to the hope I'd get a good one.

Anywhoser, I'm hoping there's somebody that can shed some light on the process of installing an aftermarket brake controller on a late model (2014-2016) Ram that originally came with the factory installed IBC (intregrated brake controller). Curious whether it requires a dealer reprogram/reflash, or is it just plug & play. Also curious how to access the IBC cable connector, which I assume would be plugged into a Ram specific aftermarket brake controller connector. Is this connector accessible from underneath the dash or does it require removal of some of the center dash panels at or near the IBC?
minnow
Explorer
Apr 02, 2016
Maybe this will help:

Brake Controller Install
Rangerman40
Explorer
Apr 02, 2016
Just found out yesterday that mine sucks as well. I was suspect before we left on our trip because I couldn't get the brakes to lock up by sliding the bar all the way over like I could on my F250. Had to do an emergency stop out on I95 here in Florida and almost ate the ass end of a little Mercedes because the truck would just not stop. The exhaust brake and tranny were doing all they could to get me slowed but I could feel the trailer pushing me down the road. I have to go to the dealer to get a couple things taken care of when I get home and am going to add this to the list.
otrfun
Explorer II
Apr 02, 2016
drittal wrote:
This issue has been going on since the 2015 model year.

Repeat, ONLY 2015+ are affected.

Starting in 2015, Ram went to an ITBM that limits duty cycle to about 70 percent of full at speed below 30mph.

Many of us have filed complaints with the NHTSA. Many of us have taken our trucKS in to the dealer to be told the ITBM is working properly and it's our trailer brakes are the issue. Take our trailer to dealer to find the brakes are in perfect working order.

The problem arises when at these lower speeds, the reduced duty cycle doesn't provide adequate voltage/amperage to larger electric brakes to achieve full stopping power.

An electrical engineer on www.ramforum.com built a test rig and using a scope has documented this 70 percent duty cycle as compared to 2014 and prior Ram and vs a P3 controller. He built this test rig after having his RV push him into an intersecrion.

We have passed this information on to a Ram representative. So far they have acknowledged that this could be a potential issue, but have said it could be a while before anything comes about in the way of a fix, citing "these things take time."
Wow, very interesting! Thanks for passing this info on. I don't have any high hopes I'll get this rectified. Just hoping I can get a P3 installed with a minimum of hassle. Thanks again!
otrfun
Explorer II
Apr 02, 2016
minnow wrote:
Maybe this will help:

Brake Controller Install
Thanks, very helpful, minnow! At least this vid shows the general location of the brake controller cables. Of course, this guy is installing an IBC on a truck that doesn't currently have one vs. someone like myself who wants to install an aftermarket brake controller on a truck that already has an IBC. Really curious whether the P3 is plug and play on a truck that already has the IBC installed. Might pose this question to etrailer. They seem to be privy to the latest.
minnow
Explorer
Apr 02, 2016
I went to the Prodigy web site and looked at their catalog. They have a wiring harness specific to the 2015-15 Rams. 3020-P and from looking at the diagram it plugs into a socket under and to the left of the steering wheel - somewhere near the emergency brake area it looks like. The RAM OE controller plugs into a socket on the other side of the steering wheel. I wondering if one could just disconnect the OE and plug in the Prodigy and be good to go.
It appears that RAM does not have a fix for this issue and it has been ongoing for a few years from what I have researched.

Here is the link to the catalog Prodigy
minnow
Explorer
Apr 02, 2016
And here is an indepth discussion of the RAM controller No Fixes Yet

Forum Discussion

Replace OEM Ram Brake Controller w/Aftermarket BC??

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