Replace OEM Ram Brake Controller w/Aftermarket BC??
Very disappointed in the Ram OEM brake controller on my new 2016 3500 (build date 8/15). After reading all the threads complaining about the Ram OEM brake controller, I was so hoping my new '16 would be the exception . . . unfortunately, no-go.
When the breakaway switch is activated on most trailers it applies maximum current to each brake---typically 3.0-3.5a. Ideally, one should be able to obtain similar current using the truck's brake controller (OEM or aftermarket with the slide switch in the maximum position).
With the OEM brake controller on my '16 Ram 3500 set to "heavy electric" and the gain set to maximum (10) I only get 2.0a at each brake assembly. I get 3.3a with the trailer's breakaway switch activated. FWIW, I get slightly better current (2.3a) with the OEM brake controller set to "heavy electric with hydraulic". 2.0a - 2.3a is enough to feel the brakes working, but not nearly enough current for an emergency braking situation.
I got similar readings when I checked the OEM brake controller current on my BIL's Ram 2500. Some will say we both have bad grounds; however, when we hookup a truck to either of our trailers with an aftermarket brake controller we get the full 3++ amps. In my opinion it's not a ground problem.
For those that do have an OEM Ram brake controller that works "properly", it would be interesting to compare current readings. It's possible that some trailers only need ~2.0 amps to brake "properly". Unfortunately, others like myself need the full 3.0++ amps to brake properly in an emergency.
So, unless, there's something I'm missing in terms of adjusting the Ram OEM brake controller, or there's some kind of fix involving a flash update, it appears I'll be forced to install an aftermarket brake controller.
For those who have replaced their Ram OEM brake controller with an aftermarket brake controller, where is the brake controller pigtail/plug located? When replacing the OEM brake controller with an aftermarket, is there any kind of dealer flash required or is it simply plug and play?
Thanks.
When the breakaway switch is activated on most trailers it applies maximum current to each brake---typically 3.0-3.5a. Ideally, one should be able to obtain similar current using the truck's brake controller (OEM or aftermarket with the slide switch in the maximum position).
With the OEM brake controller on my '16 Ram 3500 set to "heavy electric" and the gain set to maximum (10) I only get 2.0a at each brake assembly. I get 3.3a with the trailer's breakaway switch activated. FWIW, I get slightly better current (2.3a) with the OEM brake controller set to "heavy electric with hydraulic". 2.0a - 2.3a is enough to feel the brakes working, but not nearly enough current for an emergency braking situation.
I got similar readings when I checked the OEM brake controller current on my BIL's Ram 2500. Some will say we both have bad grounds; however, when we hookup a truck to either of our trailers with an aftermarket brake controller we get the full 3++ amps. In my opinion it's not a ground problem.
For those that do have an OEM Ram brake controller that works "properly", it would be interesting to compare current readings. It's possible that some trailers only need ~2.0 amps to brake "properly". Unfortunately, others like myself need the full 3.0++ amps to brake properly in an emergency.
So, unless, there's something I'm missing in terms of adjusting the Ram OEM brake controller, or there's some kind of fix involving a flash update, it appears I'll be forced to install an aftermarket brake controller.
For those who have replaced their Ram OEM brake controller with an aftermarket brake controller, where is the brake controller pigtail/plug located? When replacing the OEM brake controller with an aftermarket, is there any kind of dealer flash required or is it simply plug and play?
Thanks.
