Replacing Floor in Travel Trailer

I would expect a significant discount on a trailer with water damage. The cause is unknown to the buyer and I wouldn't trust a seller to tell me the truth. When I looked at trailers with water damage I assumed an overall lack of maintenance and made offers based on my observations. Easily thousands of dollars off a trailer with a NADA value of $7000. You'll also be limited to buyers interested in a project and they're looking for big deals.

As for the repair, it's managable by someone that's handy. If you tackle this project I'd be sure I could complete it professionally if it's up for sale. The only thing worse than water damage is shoddy repair work.

aeroBunk wrote:

Boband4 wrote:
I had the same problem, same location, little bit smaller area. I was able to cut the vinyl along the wall and cabinet, roll the floor back (roll it, dont let it fold/crease or it will split), then set the Skillsaw very shallow to cut out the rotted piece. Next I sistered some pressure treated pieces along the trailer frame to create floor joists. I chisled the old floor out at the wall, cut and dropped a replacement piece of plywood in. Screwed the plywood down to the new "floor joists", rolled the floor back over it and put some quarter round shoe molding along the wall and cabinet to secure the flooring. I did the whole job in about 3 evenings and 1 day. Turned out great! Good luck with whichever way you go!

That would be great if we could fix it that way. My husband is really good at stuff like that, but since we've never disassembled a camper we weren't sure what to expect.

Unfortunately, not all trailer floors are built with a single sheet of plywood for the floor. A lot of mfgs. use a composite panel of expanded foam and two lighter veneer sheets to form a sandwich. If your floor is built like this, it will be somewhat more difficult to repair. There are a couple of threads about floor repair illustrated on the Forum.

You were asking about a discount on pricing if he floor was not repaired and sold as/is. If you have a composite panel floor, the repair costs could be $1000-$2000, depending on who does it and if fixtures need to be removed. IF you have a single sheet floor, can save the vinyl flooring, and nothing needs to be removed (cabinets, dinettes, water heater, etc.) prices could range from $500-$1000. Both of these repairs will be a large percentage of assumed retail price. NADA lists full retail from $7K--$8K for this trailer.

Boband4 wrote:
I had the same problem, same location, little bit smaller area. I was able to cut the vinyl along the wall and cabinet, roll the floor back (roll it, dont let it fold/crease or it will split), then set the Skillsaw very shallow to cut out the rotted piece. Next I sistered some pressure treated pieces along the trailer frame to create floor joists. I chisled the old floor out at the wall, cut and dropped a replacement piece of plywood in. Screwed the plywood down to the new "floor joists", rolled the floor back over it and put some quarter round shoe molding along the wall and cabinet to secure the flooring. I did the whole job in about 3 evenings and 1 day. Turned out great! Good luck with whichever way you go!

That would be great if we could fix it that way. My husband is really good at stuff like that, but since we've never disassembled a camper we weren't sure what to expect.

jfkmk wrote:
Are you sure it was a door leak? A roof leak could run down the inside of the wall and make it look like its leaking from somewhere else.

Yeah we are sure that is where the leak was from. My husband found the spot it was leaking from and sealed it already. :)

I had the same problem, same location, little bit smaller area. I was able to cut the vinyl along the wall and cabinet, roll the floor back (roll it, dont let it fold/crease or it will split), then set the Skillsaw very shallow to cut out the rotted piece. Next I sistered some pressure treated pieces along the trailer frame to create floor joists. I chisled the old floor out at the wall, cut and dropped a replacement piece of plywood in. Screwed the plywood down to the new "floor joists", rolled the floor back over it and put some quarter round shoe molding along the wall and cabinet to secure the flooring. I did the whole job in about 3 evenings and 1 day. Turned out great! Good luck with whichever way you go!

Are you sure it was a door leak? A roof leak could run down the inside of the wall and make it look like its leaking from somewhere else.

Visually, you can't see anything wrong but this is where the floor is soft.

Ok thanks. As soon as I figure out how to upload the images I'll post some. It is a 2006 Aerolite 25RGBSL

It's very hard to estimate project costs or discount amounts without knowing what you have. A picture/s worth ten thousand words.