Roof Collapse around A/C - Now leaking
We've purchased our Rockwood TT new 7 years ago. We have been very happy. We were at Halloween campout this weekend in the rain and had a substantial leak at the air conditioner. I took off the co...
Forum Discussion
Any half-way decent carpenter (I count myself in this group) would tell you that sheathing is never installed without the joints supported.
It's difficult to get perspective from the close-up pictures but I will assume that the unsupported sheathing joint runs from side to side. Even if the opposite is the case, the cure is the same.
Here is what I would do: What the intention is, is to install a roof rafter underneath the length of the unsupported joint. It appears that the unsupported joint is a few inches from one existing roof rafter and a greater distance from another. I would first cut apiece of lumber that is the same dimension as the existing rafters. For this discussion lets call that 3 1/2", the dimension of a standard 2 x 4. I would estimate that the length of the unsupported joint is around 3' (8' width less 2' cutout). What ever it is, cut the new 2 x 4 rafter 1 1/2" less than that 1/2 span.
*Here comes the tricky part*--measure the offset from each existing rafter to the unsupported joint. On your new rafter piece attach filler blocks on the narrow offset side (one each end and one in the middle). On the side of the new rafter that faces the larger off set, make a triangle that will span about 2/3 of the distance of the new rafter, the height of the triangle being the same as the off set less 1/8" or so and the 3/4" to center of the new rafter and attach that so the peak of the triangle is at centerpoint of your new rafter (1 x 3 would be my material of choice for this triangle). You should now have a new rafter that has three blocks on one side and a triangle attached to the other side. Fill the triangle, the spaces around the triangle, and space between the blocks with insulation (I'll let you figure out how to do this). Put glue on the top and bottom edge of your new rafter, on the blocks, and anywhere else the rafter assembly will make contact and slide it under the unsupported joint. you should now have a rafter under the joint except for the last 1 1/2" adjacent to the hole. Cut another rafter sized piece, the length of the AC cutout and attach that in the same manner, including fasteners that attach to the new rafter. Repeat rafter installation on the other side and box in the remaining two sides of the cutout hole. You may feel it's necessary to run fasteners in from the top and bottom but I would forgo that until you estimate the strength of what results without them.
If you wish to know my mailing address to send the $4490 or wish to have a drawing, send me a PM. :B Good luck with the roof.
Edut: Forgot to mention---If the AC cut out area has a dip towards the floor, jack and brace the ceiling on both sides before installing new rafters and box. I used a "T" made of 2x4 and a bottle jack to raise my ceiling for rafter installation.
It's difficult to get perspective from the close-up pictures but I will assume that the unsupported sheathing joint runs from side to side. Even if the opposite is the case, the cure is the same.
Here is what I would do: What the intention is, is to install a roof rafter underneath the length of the unsupported joint. It appears that the unsupported joint is a few inches from one existing roof rafter and a greater distance from another. I would first cut apiece of lumber that is the same dimension as the existing rafters. For this discussion lets call that 3 1/2", the dimension of a standard 2 x 4. I would estimate that the length of the unsupported joint is around 3' (8' width less 2' cutout). What ever it is, cut the new 2 x 4 rafter 1 1/2" less than that 1/2 span.
*Here comes the tricky part*--measure the offset from each existing rafter to the unsupported joint. On your new rafter piece attach filler blocks on the narrow offset side (one each end and one in the middle). On the side of the new rafter that faces the larger off set, make a triangle that will span about 2/3 of the distance of the new rafter, the height of the triangle being the same as the off set less 1/8" or so and the 3/4" to center of the new rafter and attach that so the peak of the triangle is at centerpoint of your new rafter (1 x 3 would be my material of choice for this triangle). You should now have a new rafter that has three blocks on one side and a triangle attached to the other side. Fill the triangle, the spaces around the triangle, and space between the blocks with insulation (I'll let you figure out how to do this). Put glue on the top and bottom edge of your new rafter, on the blocks, and anywhere else the rafter assembly will make contact and slide it under the unsupported joint. you should now have a rafter under the joint except for the last 1 1/2" adjacent to the hole. Cut another rafter sized piece, the length of the AC cutout and attach that in the same manner, including fasteners that attach to the new rafter. Repeat rafter installation on the other side and box in the remaining two sides of the cutout hole. You may feel it's necessary to run fasteners in from the top and bottom but I would forgo that until you estimate the strength of what results without them.
If you wish to know my mailing address to send the $4490 or wish to have a drawing, send me a PM. :B Good luck with the roof.
Edut: Forgot to mention---If the AC cut out area has a dip towards the floor, jack and brace the ceiling on both sides before installing new rafters and box. I used a "T" made of 2x4 and a bottle jack to raise my ceiling for rafter installation.
