Forum Discussion
Leaf-Peeper
Oct 22, 2014Explorer
westend has a good idea by sneaking in an additional roof rafter, but I'm not sure he'll get the $4490 check in the mail anytime soon.
Figuring the OP's camper roof is built in a similar fashion as ours, it's made up from a laminated construction, much like the walls and floor. Under the roofing material you get some luan plywood, ~ 2" of Styrofoam and then another piece of luan plywood with a finished surface for the interior. You also get some rectangular aluminum tubing that runs side to side, spaced every 16" (I think) on center for structural support. That's about it.
The tubing is surrounded by the Styrofoam, so I don't think the OP will be able to sneak in an additional roof rafter or joist. The open area you see in his pictures stops at about 10" inward (if like ours) and allows for the AC ducted air flow throughout the roof. It's only that open area on each side for air ducting that leaves the plywood joint unsupported, go inboard that 10" and then it's backed/supported by the Styrofoam insulation.
Figuring the OP's camper roof is built in a similar fashion as ours, it's made up from a laminated construction, much like the walls and floor. Under the roofing material you get some luan plywood, ~ 2" of Styrofoam and then another piece of luan plywood with a finished surface for the interior. You also get some rectangular aluminum tubing that runs side to side, spaced every 16" (I think) on center for structural support. That's about it.
The tubing is surrounded by the Styrofoam, so I don't think the OP will be able to sneak in an additional roof rafter or joist. The open area you see in his pictures stops at about 10" inward (if like ours) and allows for the AC ducted air flow throughout the roof. It's only that open area on each side for air ducting that leaves the plywood joint unsupported, go inboard that 10" and then it's backed/supported by the Styrofoam insulation.
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