Forum Discussion

PeterH's avatar
PeterH
Explorer
Mar 16, 2016

Roof replacement on camper with fiberglass exterior

I have just discovered that my 1999 24 foot travel trailer has a roof leak and a soft area in the front corner of the roof. This is my first camper so it only now that I have learned that these rubber roofs are only good for 10 to 15 years if you are lucky.

Of course I have travel plans for Memorial Day weekend 7 weeks from now.

I'd like to know if anyone has replaced the roof and some rotted roof decking and any of the side wall structure on a camper with fiberglass sides. If so, how is that exterior fiberglass side panels are attached to the structure. Is it glued to the wood? Will I be able to replace any of the rotted structure? I don't expect to have to replace more than a couple of feet of wood but I am concerned about being able to make effective repairs.

I have watched several YouTube videos of how others have replaced the roof and a lot of roof structure but none mentioned this situation with this type of siding. Not worried about the roof work, just about the siding question.

Thanks,
Pete
  • Since the old roof was installed with adhesive, most of the roof remains very sticky. And of course, I pulled bits of the old OSB off with the old roof. What should I use to smooth out the existing wood deck so I have a suitable surface for the new EPDM?
    I would use an organic patching compound like this Henry's floor patching compound. . The powder mixes will also work but dry extremely fast. Sometimes not the best for a rookie.
  • Over the weekend I removed the old EPDM and repaired the damaged portion of the roof. Not too bad so the next step is to install a new roof.

    Where is the best place to buy EPDM and the other things I'll need to install it, like the adhesive?

    Since the old roof was installed with adhesive, most of the roof remains very sticky. And of course, I pulled bits of the old OSB off with the old roof. What should I use to smooth out the existing wood deck so I have a suitable surface for the new EPDM?
  • Fiberglass delamination on the side is going to be much more difficult to fix. Basically in a nut shell you will have to tear out the material from inside that has delaminated, leaving the fiberglass shell intact. Then you will have to build some kind of support on the inside, and preferably glue the fiberglass shell to it.

    Some one built a wood framing, and attached it firmly top and bottom inside the TT, then glued the fiberglass shell to the framing while simultaneously pushing the fiberglass to the framing and clamping it by bracing it against a nearby wall from outside the TT.

    I think there are pictures somewhere but you would have to do a search to find them. I haven't a clue as to where you would look to find these.
  • Don't pull your air yet unless you know for sure that you will have to replace the whole roof. I found a bad spot on mine a couple of years ago and all I had to do was cut the rubber around about 6 inches past where I could feel was the rotted area. I then cut out the rot and replaced it with new luan board held down with small screws and liquid nails ,luan is a thin plywood that I got from Loews, then pulled the rubber section back over it and sealed it with 6 inch Eternabond tape and self leveling caulk. Fortunately only the top section of my roof was damaged, if yours is also damaged inside the trailer then it becomes a bigger project. Both of our trailers are probably built similar with fiberglass sides and a roof made of luan and Styrofoam with aluminum framing and another piece of luan all covered with either TPO or EPDM rubber. the walls are probably made the same except covered with fiberglass instead of rubber. I was lucky and only had to replace the top piece of luan. Good luck and welcome to the forum.
  • PeterH wrote:
    This is my first camper so it only now that I have learned that these rubber roofs are only good for 10 to 15 years if you are lucky.



    It really comes down to the roofs are only as good as the regular maintenance performed on them. All Dicor sealant should be touched up at least every other year and some recommend every year but at least a yearly visual inspection. Also, pay strict attention to the rain gutter attachment points as those screws can let water in too.
  • I gutted a 24' trailer. The interior removal isn't that bad, nor the framing replacement. If you have some type of laminated fiberglass/wood combination, it will be tricky to fix. One of the better ideas I saw for this was positioning the sidewall within a few feet of a garage. The repairer then used braces from the garage wall to pull/push the sidewall panels together and back onto the frame.
  • I am sure it would help if you knew the make. It is a Kit Road Ranger, made in Idaho in 1999. I am the second or third owner and can't find any information about the factory or this model.

    I am going to remove the a/c unit and roll it into the barn on Friday and start on the repairs. Working blind isn't a good idea but I don't see any other choice. Other than this issue it is a great camper so I am going to do everything I can to save it. Just hope the water hasn't travelled too far. Really don't want to have to remove too much interior...

    Time will tell.

    Thanks
    - Pete
  • For info on how your RV is constructed it would help to know what RV you have.

    On many it requires replacement of the entire wall to cure delamination.