Running the fridge for 2 days off level?

Hannibal wrote:
I turned on the fridge in our then new 2017 Jayco TT a couple of days before a trip like I always had and hitched up to the truck. Checked the next day and the fridge was off. I think the LED was flashing but not sure I'm remembering accurately. Comparing the trailer lines to the eve of the house, it was nose down a few inches. I unhitched and leveled the trailer. Fridge fired back up and continues to work ok. Makes me wonder if it has a built in safeguard.
This thread made me think maybe a plumber's level might be handy for those times when perfectly level isn't feasible.

You can get stick on levels that you can apply to the outside of the unit to 'level' it. I think they are a couple bucks each. Camco has them so does Amazon on line and even Wal Mart.

I turned on the fridge in our then new 2017 Jayco TT a couple of days before a trip like I always had and hitched up to the truck. Checked the next day and the fridge was off. I think the LED was flashing but not sure I'm remembering accurately. Comparing the trailer lines to the eve of the house, it was nose down a few inches. I unhitched and leveled the trailer. Fridge fired back up and continues to work ok. Makes me wonder if it has a built in safeguard.
This thread made me think maybe a plumber's level might be handy for those times when perfectly level isn't feasible.

SidecarFlip wrote:
Of course simple answer is a duty cycle compressor fridge. Don't have to be concerned with a pressurized system. Can operate at peak efficient at up to 30 degrees out of level.

No temperature swings and not impacted by high ambient termps either. You set it for say 40 in the box, it stays at 40. What a concept.

This past weekend we camped with one of my nieces and her husband who last year bought a brand new Mercedes high roof Sprinter cargo van and converted it himself to a Class B camper, including a Dometic compressor cooler / freezer. It's a fairly large model that sits like a cooler so I'm thinking it's probably a Dometic CFX 65W or one similar. They've already done multiple trips with this rig, including a trip from here in Ontario out to British Columbia & back, and he's totally satisfied with the performance of this cooler which also has a freezer section. I did note that when he parked on his campsite he paid no attention to leveling the rig ... he literally parked and that was their "setup" ... sweet. :B

98coachman wrote:
So I'm assuming all of you never run your fridge while in transit then correct??? Unless you are driving on the plains your fridge is toast!!

That's a comment which might be expected from someone who doesn't understand the root cause of the problem. Liquid has to flow through the sloping pipes on the back of the fridge, or things back up, it overheats, and permanent damage is done. That damage is cumulative, a little bit each time and eventually you need a new cooling unit.

When you're parked and it's off level too far, gravity won't cause the liquid won't flow down the sloping tubing. Trouble. When you're traveling, it's not an issue. The bumps/sway/braking/acceleration all assist gravity in moving the fluid. As has been mentioned, 3 degrees is the recommended limit to off level. That's a bit more than a 5 percent grade, which is a pretty steep road. There are some 7 percent grades on the mountain Interstates, but that's still ok with all the movement.

There might still be an issue if you go off-road and spend hours driving up or down 10 degree (17 percent) grades, though. But not for normal RV transit.

Ammonia fridges are installed because the technology needed to catch up and now it has. The ammonia fridge will become extinct at some point in the near future. Count on that. One less thing to worry about. Fine with me. I have other, more pressing issues.

Ralph Cramden wrote:

wnjj wrote:
The main concern with shutting it off it remembering to turn it back on. :)

Keep in mind that 3 degrees of slope is 1:19 or 5.24% so many areas that "aren't level" may be just fine. If you want to be really sure, set your level at that angle and then you'll know where the bubble sits for the danger zone for quick checking in the future. To do this, set the level on a board and raise it 1" high, 19" from the end. Remember too that the front to back direction (which is side to side for the way most fridges are in a TT) is 2x that or 1" in 9.5".

Exactly.....or buy into the RV forum banter of how you have to be 100% spot on level.....its your decision!

Of course simple answer is a duty cycle compressor fridge. Don't have to be concerned with a pressurized system. Can operate at peak efficient at up to 30 degrees out of level.

Why my ammonia fridge will be on Flea-Bay next spring, replaced with a duty cycle compressor fridge (winter time project). You'll see a gradual shift to duty cycle (Danfoss/Secop) comnpressor fridges in the future, they are already being installed in many units and... they are less expensive initially. Example, a complete unit (compact, less than 2.0 cubic foot Dometic C series is under 900 bucks, actually less than a rebuilt 'Amish' cooling unit.

No temperature swings and not impacted by high ambient termps either. You set it for say 40 in the box, it stays at 40. What a concept.

98coachman wrote:
So I'm assuming all of you never run your fridge while in transit then correct??? Unless you are driving on the plains your fridge is toast!! Maybe not even then:h. I'm on my fourth trailer in 35+years and have never had a problem, knock on wood!!! I've always levelled my trailer and 3 of the 4 trailers the refrigerators were installed incorrectly and were about a half bubble off. Go figure!! Happy camping, Bill :S

Yeah, go figure - ignorance is bliss. :S Despite all the rhetoric from those mocking the need to ensure a gas absorption fridge is reasonably level when sitting still & operating one fact can't be disputed - not one of these pundits will be there ready to ante up for a new replacement fridge when the OP's fridge has failed. :R That in itself should be enough to convince anyone that ensuring level operation each & every time is worth the effort. :)

It's hot, fresh, and delicious!

That's kind of a relief. It's much easier to make sure the trailer is spot on level front to back, which, with most refrigerators means side to side which according to Norcold is the most level sensitive position.

I find it a tad harder to dial in trailer levelness side to side, since we're talking about using either boards or the plastic blocks. Whereas, just a touch of the power tongue jack button will lift or lower the trailer very accurately.

ScottG wrote:
According to the Norcold manual, it is more sensitive side to side:

"CAUTION: The refrigerator is made to operate within 3°
off level side-to-side and 6° off level front-to-back (as
looking at the front of the refrigerator). Operating it at
more than these limits can cause damage to the cooling
system and create a risk of personal injury or property
damage. Make sure the vehicle is level before you
operate the refrigerator."

98coachman wrote:
So I'm assuming all of you never run your fridge while in transit then correct??? Unless you are driving on the plains your fridge is toast!! Maybe not even then:h. I'm on my fourth trailer in 35+years and have never had a problem, knock on wood!!! I've always levelled my trailer and 3 of the 4 trailers the refrigerators were installed incorrectly and were about a half bubble off. Go figure!! Happy camping, Bill :S

You obviously don't understand what is really the concern and IMO should refrain from commenting on subjects that you are not sure of the accuracy of your information. When traveling the motion keeps the liquid moving and circulating so overheating and lack of liquid circulation is not an issue.

Again for overall best protection I recommend installing an ARP system since otherwise you could be "rolling the dice and hoping".

Larry