safe towing-camper package?

Sorry, having trouble posting and editing. Here's what I wanted to post before. Maybe it will work this time:

If your boat trailer is set up properly, you should have 420 lb (10%) tongue weight. This weight is part of your payload, since it goes on the truck suspension. Most extensions will reduce your hitch rating, so if you need an extension, a SuperHitch is needed. I also tow a similar weight tandem boat trailer with a good size tongue, and found a super extra long drawbar does the trick with no de-rating and no negative effect on the surge brakes.

https://www.etrailer.com/Ball-Mounts/Hidden-Hitch/80232.html

https://www.etrailer.com/question-29445.html

botrboy4 wrote:

Will I have white-knuckle moments with the 845 weight when towing on mountain roads (I'm a conservative driver)? Should I stay below a camper weight of 2000# when towing a 20ft on tandem axle (~4200#)?
Will it be the leverage of the hitch extension that will amplify the motion into the truck and cause those exciting moments?
I really would appreciate any experience feedback.
Thanks!

I *think* I'm safe to say I haul the biggest/heaviest combo on the TC forum. 2-slide Eagle Cap@~6800lbs, plus a 26' Wells Cargo 10k trailer. In my years, I've spent a lot of time and money to get where I'm at, but I realize I still need a bigger truck.

My white knuckle experience came doing exactly what you're referring to. Years ago, I had an F250, hauling an average TC at the time, and a 20' ski boat ski boat @about 4500lbs. I had a 2 foot extension on a Reese Class V hitch. Didn't think I was doing anything wrong at the time.

Went in to Torklift one day in Kent to buy some rear tie downs. They inspected my truck, said sure, and they'd even install them for free.

OK.

20 minutes later, they came and grabbed me and said they refused to work on my truck.

ok.. why?

The hitch extension had made the hitch fail. There was a large crack running down the passenger's side mount bolts to the frame.

I turned white... One good hard bump and I could've had the hitch fall right out from under the truck. I immediately had them put on a SuperHitch and haven't looked back since.

The moral of my TRUE story - DO NOT guess, estimate, or figure you can safely run a hitch extension. Only a Superhitch is engineered and DOT approved to run a hitch extension.


....I now step off my soap box.

stevenal wrote:
trailer with a good size tongue, and found a super extra long drawbar does the trick with no de-rating and no negative effect on the surge brakes.

https://www.etrailer.com/Ball-Mounts/Hidden-Hitch/80232.htmlhttps://www.etrailer.com/question-29445.html

If you're going there, you may as well get the Brophy shank they carry. Rated to 10,000lbs, solid 2" square, and a couple inches longer.

Beef up the hitch and tongue to the 2.5 inch and I think you will be close to doing what I'm doing now. My trailer has surge breaks does yours?

trailer with a good size tongue, and found a super extra long drawbar does the trick with no de-rating and no negative effect on the surge brakes.

https://www.etrailer.com/Ball-Mounts/Hidden-Hitch/80232.htmlhttps://www.etrailer.com/question-29445.html

You'd be really pushing it with the Lance.

I'm doing basically what you want to do, but with a 2002 Chevy DRW and a modern big block. I really don't need the DRW, but it was a deal I could not pass up.

The placard on the camper claims 16XXlbs with water and propane on board, but I'd estimate it's at least 2000lbs loaded for a trip. My tandem axle enclosed trailer's at least 4000lbs now because I just keep adding equipment, and quite heavy on the tongue.

Originally I did not tow with an extension, but I had to be careful making turns in parking lots because the rear jacks would hit the trailer. After punching a hole in the trailer skin with a jack, I upgraded my receiver to a Reese Titan 2.5" and made my own 12" extension/reducer out of a 24" Curt "weldable receiver tube."

Because the extension tube extends clear through the receiver, it is a very stable connection with little slop. It doesn't need stabilizer chains at such a short length.

I am sure would be just fine with a 2500HD or F250, though I might want a WDH for the trailer, or airbags on the truck to mitigate the squat. ~2500-3000lbs on a 3/4 ton truck does push it past level a bit.

I tow with my setup, superhitch, supertruss (42") and my trailer is about 4k and moving to an enclosed this spring adding 1-2k of weight). I'm comfortable with this setup and would take it anywhere.

Having came from a '95 F350 with a tuned powerstroke (aka, powerstruggle) I would HATE to try it with a low powered 460...and not to mention the junk brakes on that gen Ford.

Can it be done? Sure...hope no hills or the flow of traffic is in your future.

I'd consider some of the lighter and shorter pop up's if your stuck with the truck. Also realize you might (will) also have to spend a few grand outfitting the truck with the mounts, hitch, tie downs, tires and suspenion aids. It adds up, budget for it.

Thanks, everyone. I appreciate your inputs. I've never towed with a hitch extension but my thoughts (and fears) have been reflected in your responses. I guess the need for a hitch extension is the crux of truck camping with a SB when your toys need a trailer. But that's what I have for now.
Please keep the comments coming about towing with a TC.
As for getting a lighter TC, does anyone have any comments about the Adventurer 80GS? I know Bigfoot campers are well respected for cold weather camping, but can an Adventurer - and its occupants - survive the snow?
Thanks!

That's a lot to expect out of a 20year old 3/4ton all around.

It depends on the weight of your boat. If the boat and trailer are under 5000 lbs, you may be able to cobble something together on your OEM receiver. Any more weight, you really need a SuperHitch receiver and SuperTruss extension.