Sharp Bouncing

rider997 wrote:

jeffreyduncan wrote:


Thanks. I actually have the upper stable loads which instantly engage the overloads. The overloads are nearly flat when I am loaded. I just ordered some 4600's for the front and will try those.

I have the standard Hellwig. How are you adjusting it? Just cranking the threaded link in a bit more? I think I have about 3" from nut to center of the bottom bolt hole. I'd need to put some pressure on the bar to tighten those any further. I simply snugged them up best I could by hand. There was no adjustment procedure in the box. I probably could get more out of it if I tightened the links down I guess.

How are you disconnecting it without removing the whole thing?

Have you weighed your rig yet?

1. I doubt you need air bags, and I think they will make your handling worse.
2. The big wig is recommended for heavy loads (over 2 tons for your camper). The 'regular' sway bar isn't stiff enough.
3. The big wig has three holes drilled in each arm. The effective length of the torsion bar is decreased as you move the end link connections from the outer to the inner holes. I am using the inner holes on both sides. I tried all three settings to see which was most effective in a loaded configuration. Hellwig recommends that the arms be parallel with the ground when unloaded, which implicitly defines the adjustment length of the end links.
4. I am using a clevis pin through one side of the sway bar, along with a washer and cotter pin. I actually called Hellwig to get their blessing on this, and it's what they said they would recommend if you want a quick connect solution. Keep in mind that the truck needs to be level in order to get the pin in and out, but I've never found this to be a problem. I just find a level place sometime before I load the camper, and then after offloading, I'll find another level place (even if I'm in the boonies, there's inevitably some place with an equal number of boulders under each rear tire) to remove the pin. I simply use a bungee hooked to the frame and an exhaust hanger to keep the end link tucked out of the way. With the sway bar engaged, offroad driving is extremely difficult, because one of the rear tires will constantly be off the ground. Even driving onroad, unloaded, the rear end is so stiff that the truck doesn't handle very well.
5. Northwood blatantly lies about the AF811 weight. I weigh in at 11,400 fully loaded with passengers, water, propane, and cargo. I removed some heavy items from the camper to actually give me some cargo capacity (I was at 11,400 with water and propane, but without any cargo, before I removed the A/C, generator, microwave, etc.) My rear axle is carrying 7,500 lbs, which is below the rating of my load range E tires. The 811 on a short bed pickup puts almost no weight on the front axle, even with a full tank of water. If you've got full waste tanks and a generator installed, it'll remove hundreds of pounds from the front axle and dump them on the rear.
6. Are you using Torklifts for tying down the TC?

Ok good info. I am happy to find someone with the same rig.

I'm aware of the weight on the camper. I did a lot of research. I don't have an on board generator but I have AC and probably won't remove that.

My bar also has three holes and I started in the lower recommended setting. So I can change that easily. I understand how you disconnect now - thanks.

My GVW is 11,500 and I thought for sure my rear axle max was 7050 and not 7500. The E rated tires I have are the 265/70/18 and are rated at 3525 each. Maybe you have a different tire size.

Either way I know I will be close to my limit.

In any case, I am hoping the 4600 series shocks will fix the issue. My truck would be a bit heavier than yours in the front with the Diesel I would guess.