Should 2 Wheel Drive Low Range be a option??

MFL wrote:

TUCQUALA wrote:
Nothing said aboot a locked rear end!!! Shouldn't enter into the equation!

OP, welcome to forum!!! What are driving?? Don't see anything in your profile. If a Ford, and have the auto vacuum hubs, there is a modification that can be done to engage 4W lo without the hubs activating. There may be something like that for other mfgs system, I don't know.

I have a Ford with the auto vac hubs, and would like to hear more about this mod. Could you post a link, or give a brief description of this mod? I understand that pulling off vac line would work, but an easy mod kit would be great.

Jerry

I did this with my Ford a few times. The easy way is to just disconnect the electrical plug to the valve that sends vacuum to the hubs. If you disconnect the vacuum line the pump will run all the time.

hawkeye-08 wrote:
It would be very easy with the electronics to make it an option, including limiting speed and throttle to avoid parts breakage.

Yes, since now I believe all the big 3 have front axle disconnect or locking hubs currently.
It's so easy that the aftermarket offers an ultra cheap 2lo kit for the newer Rams.
I run my old keep in 2lo when using it as a mule to move heavy trailers around.
However if you need low range for a bit to back something up, it's either way too heavy or you have a manual trans.
Still kind of a want vs need thing. But it would be a better feature than 6 cameras on the dash screen.

It would be very easy with the electronics to make it an option, including limiting speed and throttle to avoid parts breakage.

Back in the day, with the standard 2wd pickup truck 4 speed tranny, 1st gear was compound low, and you did your average driving in 2nd thru 4th like a normal 3 speed manual. I never heard about anyone breaking a driveline when using compound in the ways the manufacturer intended. Granted that most engines back then lacked the horsepower and torque of today's powerplants.

3oaks wrote:
I never found a need for it. If it were to be added by the manufacturers, it should be a OPTION. Why should those of us who have no or little use for it pay the additional expense of having it come as standard equipment? Isn't the price of a new pickup truck high enough already? :R

Actually you are paying extra for the automatic locking hubs. Manual hubs that you could leave disengaged was the low cost standard.

OK some probably just have a solid axle at this point but still too much is automatic to a fault these days.

A lot depends on traction, both the pavement/dirt/etc and your tires

Camp grounds that need low range, generally, does not have that great
of traction (pavement/dirt) that I've come across

Yes, a short distance on good traction (pavement/dirt & tires) can
twist your drive shafts, axle shafts and even destroy your transfer
case...of course also dependent on how much throttle you give it

In the old days with front locking hubs...I just didn't lock them and
knew enough to give it too much throttle, but with today's demand for
'convenience'...dash push button 4x4 and no longer has front axle
hubs...so can not easily do that without a kit to disconnect the
front diff

Speed, distance, traction and throttle amount are the keys to managing
this.

For those who do NOT believe...take your 4x4 out to a large parking
lot with good pavement. Turn on your 4x4, low range and LOCKED.
Turn your steering wheel all the way to one side and touch the bump
stops

Then drive it in a circle. It will NOT go more than one or two circles
It will bind and is the twisting force trying to twist your drive
shaft and axle shafts...unless yours has a 3rd member (diff)

BE WARNED, YOU WILL BREAK STUFF IF YOU GIVE IT TOO MUCH
THROTTLE AND/OR GO MORE THAN THAT ONE OR TWO CIRCLES

This topic has been discussed and the picture of the different
radius the tires must travel will inform those who don't know what
the OP is talking about

Towing RV with AWD vs 4wheel

Since you are obviously aware of the binding, as long as you are careful, you won't tear up your drive-train.
Using too much throttle, on dry pavement, while turning sharply, is what you want to avoid.

I used to use 4-low without locking the manual hubs on an old Jeep. It was great to be able to just ease a trailer where you wanted it, without having to hardly touch the gas. I felt like it wasnt straining, and you didn't have to slip the clutch.

There is an electrical harness for the newer Rams that enable 2 wheel low while not engaging the front axle...about $150 I think. Plug and play setup.

I think it would be most useful for standard trans trucks, which are rare anymore. Auto's wouldn't see that much of a difference.
I did spend a summer RVing with my front DS removed - it was fabulous!