Finally got the new RV out over the weekend and everything went well. The only problem was there was hardly any water pressure in the shower. The sinks and toilet were fine. I think it may have been the water pressure at the campground but then the sinks wouldn't have worked properly. Has anyone experienced this? I did't fill the fresh water tank and use the pump, just city connection.

Have you checked the shower head to see if they have a restrictor in there?They like to do things like that to "save water"If you unscrew the shower head and look in there you should be able to see if it has a tiny hole. Cordless drill and a bit will cure that.

I would check the shower head first to make sure you have no restrictions. Sometimes you don't get a good flow with some shower heads that have a water saver. Turn on the water without the shower head and see if you have good water flow.

Crud gets caught in the screen in the shower head...especially on new RVs. Usually little pieces of plastic from the manufacturing process.

Also, if you are using an inexpensive inline water pressure regulator, they will reduce flow as well as pressure. Invest in a Valterra or Watts adjustable pressure regular with a pressure dial so that you can adjust the pressure without restricting flow. Fifty-Sixty bucks compared to fifteen but it makes a big difference. I thinks Watts is better as it can be rebuilt.http://www.rv-dreams-journal.com/2010/05/rv-water-pressure-regulators-related-matters.html

NHIrish wrote:Also, if you are using an inexpensive inline water pressure regulator, they will reduce flow as well as pressure. Invest in a Valterra or Watts adjustable pressure regular with a pressure dial so that you can adjust the pressure without restricting flow. Fifty-Sixty bucks compared to fifteen but it makes a big difference. I thinks Watts is better as it can be rebuilt.http://www.rv-dreams-journal.com/2010/05/rv-water-pressure-regulators-related-matters.htmlx2 I have a watts and it makes a big difference.

Shower pressure | Good Sam Community

Ole_Man_Dan
Explorer
Apr 07, 2014
I had the same problem. Took off the shower head and still only had a trickle. Solution started at the water source outside.
A quality regulator and I had pressure in my shower.
Money well spent.

Don't go cheap on water regulators...
myredracer
Explorer II
Apr 07, 2014
Some shower heads have a built-in valve. Ours does. We were getting a dribble out of it at the beginning of the season last year and I couldn't figure it out. Then I asked DW and she asked if I turned the "thingy" on it. Doh, of course, the "thingy"....

There's always the chance that you have sediment build-up in the valves or the head is plugged, especially if the sinks are fine. Unscrew the head from the hose and see if that makes a difference. Hot and cold both the same slowness? If so, more likely the shower head or hose. If the hot or the cold is noticeably slower than the other, I'd suspect a plugged or effective valve.

Those basic (inexpensive) inline exterior regulators have a low flow rate of around 1 gpm which is not all the great. Remove the regulator and see if that improves anything. A better regulator like a Watts 560 (2+ gpm) helps or better, a Watts 263A (4+ gpm). A gauge is always nice to have. Is the filter screen on the supply end of hose and the other one at the water inlet clean? You say the sinks and toilets are fine, but the check-valve inside the water inlet fitting could possibly be partially blocked or stuck. Remove the filter screen to look at it. You can push it with something to make it open.

If you happen to have a water source that is high in calcium, that can encrust the exterior of the shower outlet head. We have that problem with our well water.
Terryallan
Explorer II
Apr 07, 2014
JMOP mind you. But IF you are getting enough pressure to take a shower. Live with it. IF you fix it, and get really GREAT pressure. You will run out of hot water really fast.
BobsYourUncle
Nomad
Apr 08, 2014
donn0128 wrote:
Next thing is if you have the cheap stock shower head nothing you do will help it. Go to the store and buy an Oxygenics shower head. Probably one of the best inexpensive mods you can do to make a real shower even with low water pressure.

Donn do these things have the standard at the head shutoff that the garbage can special stock RV shower heads have?

I hate my shower head. It leaks, it dribbles, it splashes it just annoys me! :M
wmoses
Explorer
Apr 08, 2014
BobsYourUncle wrote:
Donn do these things have the standard at the head shutoff that the garbage can special stock RV shower heads have?

I hate my shower head. It leaks, it dribbles, it splashes it just annoys me! :M

Google is your friend - see the Oxygenics at Camping World for example. There is a push-button shutoff that reduces flow to a slow trickle by design. Other models have a knurled ring at the base of the head but that gets slippery in soapy hands - the push button is better.
lushy
Explorer
Apr 08, 2014
The Oxygenic shower head is very nice. Improves pressure with its technology and also I noticed a water savings. I purchased a shut off valve and installed it on the shower head. I think the new Oxygenics shower heads have the shut off with it now.

http://m.campingworld.com/search/index.cfm?convertGET=1&Ntt=Oxygenics&N=0&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntk=primary&Nty=1&Ntpc=1
Huntindog
Explorer
Apr 09, 2014
I am on my third TT and have fixed this problem 3 times. The first TT was easy. I was able to unscrew the end that the water sprays out of and block off all of the inside water holes. I used a piece of duct tape cut into a circle, just leaving the outside circle of holes open for water.
It worked perfect.
The second TT needed the same thing, plus it had a restrictor washer that I needed to remove.

My latest TT needed both of the previous mods, and the actual fixture had a restrictor hole that I had to drill out.

So the fix can be simple to more involved depending on just what is causing the problem.

While you are at it, now is a good time to address
The cold shot of water after using the shutoff feature.
If you don't boondock, then this probably isn't important to you.
If you do, read on.
Most TT showers will give a shot of cold water after using the shut off at the showerhead.
You get it all set for the temp you want, and turn it off to soap up, and are tortured by COLD water when rinsing.
The reason is the dribble of warm water that continues when the shutoff is engaged. In most TTs there is more resistance in the hot water supply line due to the water heater being involved. This means that the dribble of warm water will be replaced with water from the cold water line. In a few TTs the problem is the opposite, due to variations in the plumbing.
No matter, this mod will fix either situation.
Go to a hardware store and get a plastic ball cock valve. IIRC, it is the 1/2"threaded size. Get the fittings to install it between the hose and shower head. Use this as your shutoff, and the flow will be 100% stopped. When turned back on, the water will be very close to the temp it was when turned off. There will only be the natural cooling of the warm water sitting stationary in the lines.
Total cost is about $5.00 and 10 minutes.
wmoses
Explorer
Apr 09, 2014
In my case there is a shot of HOT water after the shutoff in the RV has been disengaged. I usually put up my palm to take the hit.
BobsYourUncle
Nomad
Apr 09, 2014
Huntindog wrote:

While you are at it, now is a good time to address
The cold shot of water after using the shutoff feature.

If you don't boondock, then this probably isn't important to you.
If you do, read on.
Most TT showers will give a shot of cold water after using the shut off at the showerhead.
You get it all set for the temp you want, and turn it off to soap up, and are tortured by COLD water when rinsing.
The reason is the dribble of warm water that continues when the shutoff is engaged. In most TTs there is more resistance in the hot water supply line due to the water heater being involved. This means that the dribble of warm water will be replaced with water from the cold water line In a few TTs the problem is the opposite, due to variations in the plumbing.
No matter this mod will fix either situation.
Go to a hardware store and get a plastic ball cock valve. IIRC, it is the 1/2"threaded size. Get the fittings to install it between the hose and shower head. Use this as your shutoff, and the flow will be 100% stopped. When turned back on, the water will be very close to the temp it was when turned off. There will only be the natural cooling of the warm water sitting stationary in the lines.
Total cost is about $5.00 and 10 minutes.

Thanks for the explanation. That shot of cold has always bugged me.
I have learned to aim the thing away from myself when I turn it back on. And when I forget, it is a COLD reminder!
I'd like to fix it permanently.
Huntindog
Explorer
Apr 09, 2014
wmoses wrote:
In my case there is a shot of HOT water after the shutoff in the RV has been disengaged. I usually put up my palm to take the hit.
Yes as I said, that can happen if for some reason the resistance is greater in the cold water supply lines. The ball cock valve mod will fix either situation.

Non boondockers don't have the water conservation concerns that boondockers do, so aiming it away, or into ones palm etc. is a good solution. For boondockers, water is our most precious resource. How well we mange it will determine how long we can camp.

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