Side Awning Install - Butyl Tape, Non Sag Dicor, Other...

I suppose it would have helped to mention the type of awning...

It's a 9.5 Carefree with metal mounting plates that have a lip that the awning basically hangs on. As Mike pointed out, finding metal or substantial blocking is necessary, which I've done. I wonder if Northwood runs extra material within the wall for their factory installed awnings?

Anyway, my biggest concern is how to properly seal those holes and bracket plates to the camper.

trailgranny:

Believe me, I've held off doing this. Even as I type this, I'm not even 100% sure I'm going to keep this camper. Not happy that the roof began lifting so soon after buying it. But, the awning was a good "open-box" deal. It has a couple scratches. I don't mind. Better than paying full price.

As far as wiring, there really isn't anything on the passenger side of camper, just the running lights at each corner which the wires don't run in the area of the awning. The height of the awning and the amount of effectual shade has me wondering also if it's worth it. But considering manufacturers offer them as an option, it's must okay, right? ;-P

Yup, two different methods. Awning rail and awning either roof or wall mount depending on the awning purchased, and the bracket method as with Carefree box awning I'm familiar with. Brackets are supplied with awning and require drilling completely thru the camper wall and backed with washers or thin plate inside the camper. These can be set up to attach anywhere along the awning itself. Thought about that long and hard and decided with our older, and I mean OLDER, camper I trusted the security of actually having the awning's complete length being supported by the rail system rather than who knows how strong of wall construction. The height of the awning from the ground on way taller new basement model campers and new trucks can cut down on the available shade/rain protection and require pitch adjustment on the awning, if that's even an option. One thing you can do is find wall studs as mentioned in another response and mount the thing lower on the wall if side wall obstructions permit. Just be super sure of your measurements, length and drop of the awning case down from the rail or brackets and wiring that might be behind there. Wish manufacturers supplied wiring diagrams in the paper package that comes with new campers. Sure would take some of the question marks off the list of what ifs in those walls.

I think there is 2 different methods of mounting being discussed here.

One method is to mount this track or awning rail on the wall first that has a c channel built into it, than the awning mounts into this track. I think this one uses screws about every 4" or so.

Than I have read about a method where the awning box mounds on a different type rail system wall. This might be the 3/8" holes method?

Both are discussed in this document.
click here

Joe,
I would buy a metal stud finder if you don't already have one and use that to mark where the aluminum studs or blocking is located. You'll want to mount the track to something substantial. This is what I did when I mounted my rear ladder on my WC850 and it worked great.

Thanks

Installed my case awning a couple three months ago. Used the "putty" tape stuck to the back of the C track then Dicor at all the edges, I'm leak paranoid. Be REAL sure track is hitting solid material in the wall and no wiring. One big caveat that shouldn't be ignored is making sure the C part of the track is evenly open and DO spray the inside of that puppy real good with silicone lubricant. Should be no brainer to have another pair or two of hands there as it's not a one person slide in project. Secure each end of track with a metal screw to prevent awning sliding either way. Not real complicated just needs thought out in advance and don't skip steps.