silicone removal Yes/No?

It is important to keep in mind that when silicone was introduced it was the greatest thing since sliced bread.

As Elmer Kieth said..Hell-I was there.:B

I would guess most of the people trashing silicone have never used it.Silicone works and others works also,some supposedly better but I won't comment on the supposedly better because I have not used them.

Most all of my travel is off pavement on wash boardy roads and I have yet to have a window leak in any RV I have owned...Roof yes/window no.

I guess that sliced bread is still pretty good.If it ain't broke don't fix it!

westend wrote:

The reason Dicor was not used around the windows I am told is that you can't use painters tape with Dicor to control where the caulk goes and doesn't go. When you use Dicor and pull the tape off, all these gooey strings get pulled up and go all over the place. The silicone (apparently) "plays well" with painters tape so you can attempt to get a straight even edge (even though on most of the silicone applications there is a small ridge where the tape was pulled away).

This is an application procedure issue and it's not about the materials.
You don't need and shouldn't use any tape when resealing any areas on your trailer. The problem most folks have is that they can't apply the sealants correctly and apply too much, initially.

First thing is the gun--buy the better ones, not the cheapest you can find at the Big Box stores. You want one where the trigger can evenly be pulled to distribute the sealant evenly. Next, when preparing the tube for use, cut on an angle a very small hole (1/8", maximum). Place the tube end at the start of the sealant run and, while applying pressure to the trigger, draw the tube end away from the bead you are applying. If done right, this will leave a bead of sealant 1/8" wide (or so). I like to compress the bead into the joint being sealed and use a spoon, caulk tool, or my finger. Compression of the bead will force sealant into the joint and even out any untoward cosmetic issues.

Hope this helps. BTW, if using Proflex or similar sealants when temperatures start to drop, I've found them easier to apply by heating the tubes just a bit. THis helps to lower the viscosity and the sealants flow freely.

I'm not aware of any other caulking guns. I'll have to check the stores. We cut a small 1/8" hole and that worked but it came out too much and made a mess. I'll either leave it, as from afar it's not so bad to look at, or remove it on that one section and start over.

Silicone, in my experience, has a lot of bond failure. I can come back to an area where it was applied and the bead will be intact but it will be loose from the substrate. Depending on what type of substrate, it can bond well. A trailer side is not a good substrate.

FWIW, I use a relatively good amount of caulk for work. Most of it is acrylic for good paintability. I use silicone inside, around tubs, sinks, countertops, etc.. I sometimes use urethane and now, polymer caulks outside for typical sealing jobs. IMO, the polymer caulks are best. Geocel makes a few different ones, including Proflex RV. I've been using the 2300 series from them and it is very stout.

It is important to keep in mind that when silicone was introduced it was the greatest thing since sliced bread.

Does that mean that previous materials were junk and everything sealed with them immediately sprung a leak? Of course not. Silicone was simply a better, longer lasting material. Also at the time more costly.

All these years later, silicone has been upstaged by even better products and silicone's luster has faded. It still does what it always did but like it's predecessors not as long or as well.

So why does the TT industry still use silicone? Most likely because it is the least expensive material that will do the job. I doubt longevity is much of a concern.

parcany wrote:
I went in to Camping world and asked them what I could us to seal around the windows on our Travel Trailer. I was told by them to use silicone around the windows, and this was from a tech.

Same with me, plus it was noted on the tube of siding sealant to use silicone for windows, but I think there is a breakdown in communication as to what "around windows" means, as previously discussed in this thread.

parcany wrote:
I went in to Camping world and asked them what I could us to seal around the windows on our Travel Trailer. I was told by them to use silicone around the windows, and this was from a tech.

Consider the source, he may have thought that was the best from his own limited use.

I think everyone that is concerned about sealing the various areas of a trailer that can leak and has seen the failure of silicone would disagree with Mr Camping World Tech.

There's an easy way to demonstrate on how silicone weathers outside--get a tube and a piece of light metal. Apply a bead of silicone on the metal and place it outside in the sun and weather. Report back in a year or two.

Good luck on the project. Remember the old adage "Do no harm".

Let us know how you made out.

I went in to Camping world and asked them what I could us to seal around the windows on our Travel Trailer. I was told by them to use silicone around the windows, and this was from a tech.

Have been dealing with leaks on my 5er for 2 years now. i swear every time i clean it, i find a leak. Every single place that has leaked has been at a silicone joint. It does not flex enough with the trailer and once the seal is broken, it is done for.

Just Monday this week, I remove ALL silicone from around every window as it had pulled away and was leaking. they now have Dicor Non-Sag lap sealant. if you find a leak where silicon is applied, better to remove it and apply something else or you will be revisiting it again in the future. Needless, my door does not have silicone and it isn't leaking and the seal isn't broken at all.

Silicone does NOT belong on the outside of an RV as a sealant. It just isn't up to the abuse. They use it because a $3 tube of silicone is much cheaper than a $13 tube of Dicor.

I'm sure after my next camping trip i will have to seal more areas, never fails.

Timeking wrote:
The Final Straw -- I took a magnifying glass and looked at the silicone as I touched it with my fingernail. The stuff simply lifted up, and when I let go, sat back down, and appeared like it did before I touched it.

There was no adhesion at all.

Around the door, where the Dicor was used, you could dig at it and tear at it, but it is on there, well-adhered. So that is that.

The silicone comes off.

Man oh man, you are super lucky on that. It could have taken the rest of our born days to get it all off otherwise.

Make sure you get any remaining residue and bits off. You might try one of the scrapers for cleaning glass that has a plastic blade instead of metal. Won't scratch surfaces like a metal one will. Not sure where to get one - I got them at a plastics supply shop. For just remaining residue, mineral spirits should work.