Does anyone have experience lifting the front of the new HD's? I've seen the 1 and 2 inch lift kits. And the local dealer told me that they can rotate something in the front suspension to raise it up, giving the truck a more level look. Either way, what are the benefits and disadvatages in doing this? I'm guessing a level truck would look better, until you put a load in the back. Would airbags then be needed? Is any modification going to cause additional wear on front end components?

CurtisFamily wrote:Does anyone have experience lifting the front of the new HD's? I've seen the 1 and 2 inch lift kits. And the local dealer told me that they can rotate something in the front suspension to raise it up, giving the truck a more level look. Either way, what are the benefits and disadvatages in doing this? I'm guessing a level truck would look better, until you put a load in the back. Would airbags then be needed? Is any modification going to cause additional wear on front end components?Doing a modest level of 1 or 2 inches is very common with pickup trucks. I did the same to my F-150 when I wanted to fit larger tires on the vehicle. With GM trucks, they use a torque rod instead of a coil-wound spring. Same concept, but the spring is just a straight rod with a twist in it. To add lift, they can add more twist to this rod but it will firm up your suspension. The dealer would use a "torque key" to add additional twist to the torque rod. If you have a lot of miles on your vehicle, it may put different wear on your ball joints, cv axles and shock absorber. Unless you have a whole lot of miles, your ball joints and cv axles will usually not be an issue. Typically it will be the shocks that need to be replaced when you do this, as they wear into a certain movement range and when you level, you've moved the shock's stroke range a good inch or so. A lot of the aftermarket make front shocks specifically for this. When I leveled my truck, I decided to put Bilstein 5100's all around.

If you like the ride of your truck just go with a basic spacer lift that goes on top of the strut between the strut mount. It's the easiest, cheapest and most common and won't affect the stock ride.You will need a wheel alignment and depending on the amount of lift you may need to drop the differential to keep the axle angles in line, but usually only if lifting more than 2".

I leveled my 2012 2500HD by cranking the torsion bars which is what the dealer is suggesting I think. The downside is the ride quality decreases. The upside is you still have the $2000 in your wallet as opposed to lifting the truck. I would suggest you have the dealer crank the Tbars to where you want it, drive it for a while and see what you think. If you like it, then have the front end realigned. So don't drive for three month cranked up without getting aligned you will wear your front tires. You don't over crank it, you don't have to worry about extending the shocks. I only cranked up to level the truck out.

camp-n-family wrote:If you like the ride of your truck just go with a basic spacer lift that goes on top of the strut between the strut mount. It's the easiest, cheapest and most common and won't affect the stock ride.You will need a wheel alignment and depending on the amount of lift you may need to drop the differential to keep the axle angles in line, but usually only if lifting more than 2".No struts on a GM HD truck. Torsion bars can be cranked up to increase ride height, but ride quality will suffer as noted. Also will accelerate wear on ball joints and other front end parts. Not a reason not to do it, just an FYI.

My 2012 Chevy CC dually sits level with the 5er on it,why would I want to mess with it?

Silverado HD front end lift | Good Sam Community

Johndeere4955
Explorer
Feb 14, 2014
Paul Clancy wrote:
IFS

Yeah. IFS, it works, its proven, it make these truck comfy to drive. Why would Gm change it so a few of us out there can run 35's with out lifting them.
Paul_Clancy
Explorer
Feb 14, 2014
IFS
Johndeere4955
Explorer
Feb 14, 2014
After driving my truck for only 71000 kms (44000 miles) completely stock my pitman and arm were worn out and had to be replaced. After replacing the parts I turned up my torsion bars and raised the front end 1 3/4", installed longer shocks, new wheels with 33's, aligned the front end and added the Cognito pitman and idler arm support. Truck rides no different than before and looks great.

When I bought my fifth wheel (91000 kms) I added air bags in the rear to keep it riding it level. I have had no issues at all driving or towing with this truck the way it is set up. I now have 198000 kms on the truck (124000 miles) and the truck front end is still tight with no uneven wear on my tires (mud terrains) or front end parts. The truck see quite a bit of rough oilfield road driving as well as four lane highway towing, so it does get used.

Still kind of wondering why on a GM I have to level it get 33's on yet on a Ford or a Dodge I can put on 35's without doing anything? I doubt GM will ever change this though, oh well.

Go away snow its time to get camping!!
elkhorn98
Explorer
Feb 04, 2014
Well i did it on mine but mine was too low and out of spec for the z height which is what you measure to see if it is in spec. I raised my truck 1.5 inches to the upper end of the z height spec and then got it aligned. Now i am level when i tow.
N-Trouble
Explorer
Feb 03, 2014
ashnic wrote:
I had my 2012 leveled with keys/shock extenders. Had the front end aligned at same time so I could fit 305/55/20 under the truck. Looks and rides very nice I think..Won't be towing with it for another couple months but don't really expect any problems..

Is that on factory 20" rims or aftermarket? I have the same year truck running 305/55/20 on factory 20's and did not have to level. I have no rubbing.
ashnic
Explorer
Feb 03, 2014
I had my 2012 leveled with keys/shock extenders. Had the front end aligned at same time so I could fit 305/55/20 under the truck. Looks and rides very nice I think..Won't be towing with it for another couple months but don't really expect any problems..
Silver_Eagle_94
Explorer
Feb 02, 2014
Been reading all this about lifting the front,but nothing been said about just droping the rear,do know theres a shakel kit to drop one a little. just askin
MO_Trout_Bum
Explorer
Feb 02, 2014
Previous owner of my truck added 285's and cranked the t bars. After the tires wore out I put stock 245's on it and cranked it back down. Better ride, back to stock final drive ratio, easier to climb in. Guess it depends on what you are looking for, however if you're towing heavy, you are better off to leave it alone and save your money. Just my opinion...
BurbMan
Explorer II
Jan 28, 2014
Paul Clancy wrote:
I had my 09 raised 1 inch and aligned. The result was a bit more steering wander. I assume because stock it was on the rubber stops and now is off.

Actually those aren't "stops". Those bumpers are designed to work with the torsion bars to control the spring rate. When you crank up the torsion bars off of those bumpers they no longer help the spring rate and the result is what you see.
danojeno
Explorer
Jan 28, 2014
The previous owner of my truck cranked the t-bars to fit 295 70 17s (33.5). I just replaced upper ball joints and tie rod ends at 65k after it ate my expensive tires. Alignment shop put heavier duty parts on but I will be going in for regular check ups to verify so I don't prematurely kill more tires.

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