Skid wheels
We just picked up our first travel trailer and were a bit concerned about getting it in our driveway. Our driveway it pretty steep, narrow (<9' wide and cut into a hill), and we need to turn off of a...
Forum Discussion
Hi,
The term "Flipping the axles" means that the springs normally go under the axle, and you can convert them to sit on top of the axle, raising the trailer by about 6" to 8" taller. This helps out in situations where the trailer will require more ground clearance.
Adding skid wheels might help too. Make sure that they are rated for a lot of weight, they can take on 500 pounds or more each. Also make sure they stay straight, and tiny diameter helps, so that the wheel is not putting pressure on the side of it's mounting point.
Imagine if you had swivel casters on the back. You start to pull into the driveway, and the trailer puts weight on the hitch pivot as well as the swivel casters. Then the center tires stop carrying enough weight, so it pivots downhill, in other words will spin in a 1/2 circle towards the downhill. It can be unnerving to say the least!
I had 2" diameter straight casters on my class C motorhome. My class A Bounder has the bumper 18" off the ground, so it has not scraped.
You want the casters on something strong, like the frame. You also want them in a angle from the rear bumper to the tires, that puts them just a inch or so below that line. So for instance, if you take some string, back the tires onto it, then tie it to the bumper on the left and right sides, you want the tires to sit about 1" below that string, not much more, or it will be lifting the bumper more than required, yet still be low enough that the bumper "Should" not scrape most of the time.
Check this link. http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/ultra-steel-roller-2-5-x-3/64885
My casters where plastic, yet this steel one looks like it will last much longer. You can take the wheel off of that one, then drill a 3/8" hole, and bolt it to the trailer frame.
Fred.
The term "Flipping the axles" means that the springs normally go under the axle, and you can convert them to sit on top of the axle, raising the trailer by about 6" to 8" taller. This helps out in situations where the trailer will require more ground clearance.
Adding skid wheels might help too. Make sure that they are rated for a lot of weight, they can take on 500 pounds or more each. Also make sure they stay straight, and tiny diameter helps, so that the wheel is not putting pressure on the side of it's mounting point.
Imagine if you had swivel casters on the back. You start to pull into the driveway, and the trailer puts weight on the hitch pivot as well as the swivel casters. Then the center tires stop carrying enough weight, so it pivots downhill, in other words will spin in a 1/2 circle towards the downhill. It can be unnerving to say the least!
I had 2" diameter straight casters on my class C motorhome. My class A Bounder has the bumper 18" off the ground, so it has not scraped.
You want the casters on something strong, like the frame. You also want them in a angle from the rear bumper to the tires, that puts them just a inch or so below that line. So for instance, if you take some string, back the tires onto it, then tie it to the bumper on the left and right sides, you want the tires to sit about 1" below that string, not much more, or it will be lifting the bumper more than required, yet still be low enough that the bumper "Should" not scrape most of the time.
Check this link. http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/ultra-steel-roller-2-5-x-3/64885
My casters where plastic, yet this steel one looks like it will last much longer. You can take the wheel off of that one, then drill a 3/8" hole, and bolt it to the trailer frame.
Fred.
