Smartplug Converstion
First I give credit to the smart folks that posted on this 5th Wheel thread. https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/30084692.cfm Particularly this link: https://marinehowto.com...
Forum Discussion
You see, we live in Willamette Valley and this past summer I watched hornets walk up the cord and into the cubby hole. So, absolutely, it is time to seal that point of entry. Which means the conversion from nondetachable to detachable power cord is the best solution, which means I must perform a "power inlet conversion" (period).
If we limit our selection to what Camping World offers (RV choices)--then we have these 3 options for 30 amp service:
1. Twistlock (1/8 turn twist type, cira 1938 hospital plug)
https://www.campingworld.com/30-a-rv-power-inlet-28231.html#q=power%2Binlet〈=default&start=2&cgid=outside-rv%2Foutdoor-electrical%2Felectrical-hardware%2Felectrical-adapters
2. STS locking twist type (same cira 1938 hospital plug guts)
https://www.campingworld.com/hubbell-boatside-polycarbonate-shore-power-inlet-316764.html?cgid=boating-watersports#q=power%20inlet&start=1&cgid=boating-watersports%2Fmarine-electrical%2Fshore-power%2Fdockside-adapters-plugs-outlets
3. Smartplug (circa 2008 and has 20 times the metal contact than the above twistlock connectors)
https://www.campingworld.com/30-amp-non-metallic-inlet-with-black-cover-assembly-95379.html#q=smartplug〈=default&start=5&cgid=outside-rv%2Foutdoor-electrical%2Felectrical-hardware%2Felectrical-hatches-outlets
Now what fails? Where is the failure?
Reason for failure is: corrosion on the metal blades or contacts (plug and/or receptacle), or bad connection between the wire and the wired device (again plug and/or receptacle). Sorry GD, these failures have nothing to do with bad receptacles at RV parks. I agree, many RV parks do not up keep up with their maintenance, but the failures I am discussing, have nothing to do with the NEMA TT 30p plug, circa 1970....rather I am discussing the twist lock plugs designed before WWII that have a tendency to fail.
Check out the actual metal surface contact of those twist lock plugs...rather embarrassing I say! 30 amps of power concentrated in that narrow dimple contact.
Now check out Smartplug's 30A plug
Let's assume the cordset I bought on Walmart is bunk (I assume they are, price is way to low...but you never know, might be inventory closeout sale and easy to reverse credit charge for full refund), then the next step is to drop a few Benjamins and pick the perfect power inlet and cordset, like the one Camping World has.
https://www.campingworld.com/30-amp-30%27-cordset-and-stainless-steel-inlet-blackstainless-steel-95386.html#q=smartplug%2Bstainless〈=default&start=1&cgid=outside-rv%2Foutdoor-electrical%2Felectrical-hardware%2Felectrical-cords
The worst thing I can do is reuse a power cord I have used for the past 20 years and wire a Smartplug connector to it. Safety first dude; as I plan be around the next 30 or so years to celebrate my 100th birthday.
I also direct readers to this article, DIY Shore Power (circa 2020). Yeah it is written for boaters (not RV'ers) but it discusses all the STS power inlet options.
https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/DIY-Shore-Power
If we limit our selection to what Camping World offers (RV choices)--then we have these 3 options for 30 amp service:
1. Twistlock (1/8 turn twist type, cira 1938 hospital plug)
https://www.campingworld.com/30-a-rv-power-inlet-28231.html#q=power%2Binlet〈=default&start=2&cgid=outside-rv%2Foutdoor-electrical%2Felectrical-hardware%2Felectrical-adapters
2. STS locking twist type (same cira 1938 hospital plug guts)
https://www.campingworld.com/hubbell-boatside-polycarbonate-shore-power-inlet-316764.html?cgid=boating-watersports#q=power%20inlet&start=1&cgid=boating-watersports%2Fmarine-electrical%2Fshore-power%2Fdockside-adapters-plugs-outlets
3. Smartplug (circa 2008 and has 20 times the metal contact than the above twistlock connectors)
https://www.campingworld.com/30-amp-non-metallic-inlet-with-black-cover-assembly-95379.html#q=smartplug〈=default&start=5&cgid=outside-rv%2Foutdoor-electrical%2Felectrical-hardware%2Felectrical-hatches-outlets
Now what fails? Where is the failure?
Reason for failure is: corrosion on the metal blades or contacts (plug and/or receptacle), or bad connection between the wire and the wired device (again plug and/or receptacle). Sorry GD, these failures have nothing to do with bad receptacles at RV parks. I agree, many RV parks do not up keep up with their maintenance, but the failures I am discussing, have nothing to do with the NEMA TT 30p plug, circa 1970....rather I am discussing the twist lock plugs designed before WWII that have a tendency to fail.
Check out the actual metal surface contact of those twist lock plugs...rather embarrassing I say! 30 amps of power concentrated in that narrow dimple contact.
Now check out Smartplug's 30A plug
Let's assume the cordset I bought on Walmart is bunk (I assume they are, price is way to low...but you never know, might be inventory closeout sale and easy to reverse credit charge for full refund), then the next step is to drop a few Benjamins and pick the perfect power inlet and cordset, like the one Camping World has.
https://www.campingworld.com/30-amp-30%27-cordset-and-stainless-steel-inlet-blackstainless-steel-95386.html#q=smartplug%2Bstainless〈=default&start=1&cgid=outside-rv%2Foutdoor-electrical%2Felectrical-hardware%2Felectrical-cords
The worst thing I can do is reuse a power cord I have used for the past 20 years and wire a Smartplug connector to it. Safety first dude; as I plan be around the next 30 or so years to celebrate my 100th birthday.
I also direct readers to this article, DIY Shore Power (circa 2020). Yeah it is written for boaters (not RV'ers) but it discusses all the STS power inlet options.
https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/DIY-Shore-Power
