Forum Discussion
bobndot
Oct 28, 2014Explorer III
I question the controller and the mod sine wave.
IMO. two weak links in the package.
Check out the MPPT controllers and PSW inverters. PSW is clean electricity to operate sensitive digital electronics.
My 150 watt PSW was $100. It does what I need.
My previous camper had solar, when I sold the camper, the solar went with it. I had to bring along a Honda 2k anyway . I found it easier to use the genny to charge things as needed.
When fishing, the driving of the camper takes care of charging for me, moving from one spot to the next.
Half the time , it rains whenever I fish. Tree cover is another issue, making solar not too effective.
If I used my camper parked in sunny places all day for days or weeks at a time then I could see using solar. But for me, the only thing drawing on my 12 volt system is my fridge circuit board at 1/4 amp.
Everything else has toggle switches to disable 12v. things.
I found this read to be informative.(scroll down to get into the solar part of it)
It includes upgrades made to his system that he felt was needed once he got into using the system.
http://www.rv-dreams.com/our-rv-electrical.html
"The rule of thumb is to match your battery bank amp hour capacity with the total watts of your solar panel array." ( AM Solar)
IMO. two weak links in the package.
Check out the MPPT controllers and PSW inverters. PSW is clean electricity to operate sensitive digital electronics.
My 150 watt PSW was $100. It does what I need.
My previous camper had solar, when I sold the camper, the solar went with it. I had to bring along a Honda 2k anyway . I found it easier to use the genny to charge things as needed.
When fishing, the driving of the camper takes care of charging for me, moving from one spot to the next.
Half the time , it rains whenever I fish. Tree cover is another issue, making solar not too effective.
If I used my camper parked in sunny places all day for days or weeks at a time then I could see using solar. But for me, the only thing drawing on my 12 volt system is my fridge circuit board at 1/4 amp.
Everything else has toggle switches to disable 12v. things.
I found this read to be informative.(scroll down to get into the solar part of it)
It includes upgrades made to his system that he felt was needed once he got into using the system.
http://www.rv-dreams.com/our-rv-electrical.html
"The rule of thumb is to match your battery bank amp hour capacity with the total watts of your solar panel array." ( AM Solar)
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