Solar install question
Hi all.
I am wanting to install a solar panel on top of my Aspen Trail 1700db TT. I know enough about how solar works to understand the BASIC relationship between panel, charge controller, and battery, and how to connect them in the most simple terms.
Here's the equipment I want to install:
- Kyocera 150W panel
- 30A MPPT charge controller + MT-50 meter (I will add another panel later)
- 40ft solar cable, 10awg
- 2x12 volt deep cycle batts (wet)
Planned install: Mount panel atop slightly curved rubber roof; run solar down through fridge vent to charge controller mounted in a cabinet next to the fridge.
This is doable for me. But here's my problem: due to the configuration of the TT, it would be very difficult to connect directly to the batteries, located outside the coach on the tongue.
I'd like to connect the charge controller to the batteries via the converter, a WFCO 8955. Apparently this is how the rv dealership where i purchased my trailer adds solar, for which they charge about $500 bucks + the cost of (overpriced) GO Power panel (160W).
The dist. panel board has 2 white wires on the DC side (1 going to converter and the other (battery?) going to a buss behind the converter. it then leaves the buss and drops into a hole in the floor, so i assume this goes out to the batteries. For the positive, there's a black cable connected at the board, plugged into 1 of 2 lugs. the other lug on the board is open.
I have seen a video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqfIjfF5eGQ&list=PL_8gRzheasijMxKqQ30cP_4QGoYZeSnPB. At the 9 minute mark the video demonstrates what I want to accomplish. However, my unit doesn't have wire nuts, only the negative going into the buss, and then just the positive disappearing into the floor.
I am wondering if I can do the following:
- plug the neg charge controller cable into the buss
- plug the pos charge controller cable into the open lug on the board. I'd also like to install a kill switch.
Any reason I SHOULD NOT do this? Again, this is up for consideration only because after going under the trailer and seeing how everything is hidden behind either darco or coroplast, i'm looking for an easier way to accomplish my goal.
Thanks for reading this very long post.
Tim
I am wanting to install a solar panel on top of my Aspen Trail 1700db TT. I know enough about how solar works to understand the BASIC relationship between panel, charge controller, and battery, and how to connect them in the most simple terms.
Here's the equipment I want to install:
- Kyocera 150W panel
- 30A MPPT charge controller + MT-50 meter (I will add another panel later)
- 40ft solar cable, 10awg
- 2x12 volt deep cycle batts (wet)
Planned install: Mount panel atop slightly curved rubber roof; run solar down through fridge vent to charge controller mounted in a cabinet next to the fridge.
This is doable for me. But here's my problem: due to the configuration of the TT, it would be very difficult to connect directly to the batteries, located outside the coach on the tongue.
I'd like to connect the charge controller to the batteries via the converter, a WFCO 8955. Apparently this is how the rv dealership where i purchased my trailer adds solar, for which they charge about $500 bucks + the cost of (overpriced) GO Power panel (160W).
The dist. panel board has 2 white wires on the DC side (1 going to converter and the other (battery?) going to a buss behind the converter. it then leaves the buss and drops into a hole in the floor, so i assume this goes out to the batteries. For the positive, there's a black cable connected at the board, plugged into 1 of 2 lugs. the other lug on the board is open.
I have seen a video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqfIjfF5eGQ&list=PL_8gRzheasijMxKqQ30cP_4QGoYZeSnPB. At the 9 minute mark the video demonstrates what I want to accomplish. However, my unit doesn't have wire nuts, only the negative going into the buss, and then just the positive disappearing into the floor.
I am wondering if I can do the following:
- plug the neg charge controller cable into the buss
- plug the pos charge controller cable into the open lug on the board. I'd also like to install a kill switch.
Any reason I SHOULD NOT do this? Again, this is up for consideration only because after going under the trailer and seeing how everything is hidden behind either darco or coroplast, i'm looking for an easier way to accomplish my goal.
Thanks for reading this very long post.
Tim
