Have a new 25 ft. Rockwood Mini-Lite TT with 2 batteries. We dry camp and want to know is solar panels worth a try? Unit is set up for solar but concerned that it will take a lot of time to bring batteries back u, thieft issues also a concern. Alternative is a Honda 2000 gen.

I currently don't own either but would suggest the best answer is BOTH. Solar for when the sun is out in full force and they're not shaded by trees, a genset for those times the weather is heavily overcast or your site is in complete shade.FWIW, I have owned 2 different EU2000i gensets, a great unit, but still way too noisy for me in any organized campground. You gotta fuel it obviously and regardless of what some may claim it does produce exhaust fumes that smell. But it will reliably recharge your batteries regardless of the weather.

It's going to take a lot of solar in the NE to get much power. A 2000W generator will not run your AC...takes 3000W.

Ivylog wrote:It's going to take a lot of solar in the NE to get much power.Even something is better than nothing ... and once installed solar is "free". ;)A 2000W generator will not run your AC...takes 3000W.Time to get with the program ;) - install a Micro-Air Easy Start soft starter kit on any 13,500 BTU A/C and testimonials from those who have done this mod confirm an single EU2000i will successfully & repeatedly start a 13,500 BTU A/C, a 3000W genset is no longer a requirement. :BThat said, the OP never mentioned the need to use A/C at all, just that they dry camp a lot, without shore power.

SoundGuy wrote:Ivylog wrote:It's going to take a lot of solar in the NE to get much power.Even something is better than nothing ... and once installed solar is "free". ;)A 2000W generator will not run your AC...takes 3000W.Time to get with the program ;) - install a Micro-Air Easy Start soft starter kit on any 13,500 BTU A/C and testimonials from those who have done this mod confirm an single EU2000i will successfully & repeatedly start a 13,500 BTU A/C, a 3000W genset is no longer a requirement. :BThat said, the OP never mentioned the need to use A/C at all, just that they dry camp a lot, without shore power.Yup, I just installed one 2 weeks ago and it will start my 13.5K at 1400 ft and 95 degrees with my eu2000i.I tested it at 120 degrees and the poor little gen really tried but coudnt overcome the 59 locked rotor amps.

If you will need to use your microwave or air conditioner at all, start with a generator. If you plan to camp at altitude, the 2000 probably won't fire the air con even with a soft start kit. My 3000 watt Yamaha barely got the AC going at 5000 feet, blinking its overload light once the compressor kicked on. I do agree the best answer assuming you can afford it is both. I'll be having solar installed next year. Besides not having to plug the trailer in every few weeks to top off the batteries, solar will give me a few extra days of electricity while boondocking. If I don't have to use the micro or air con, solar will give me quiet power all weekend.

Solar vs generator | Good Sam Community

60 Replies

pianotuna
Nomad III
Jun 24, 2017
Hi CA Traveler,

Sorry if my post sounded "off". Your mention of diodes simply made me think of mine. I wish they were not so large. What I have works extremely well--I just need to have more watts. That would mean giving up all those lovely diodes.

My "no holds barred" system would be 48 volts with Firefly or Outback carbon based batteries and 1600 watts of solar. Sadly, I'm not going to be a full timer long enough to make that economic.

CA Traveler wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
Hi CA Traveler,

My 4 panels have diodes between every cell and are wired in series/parallel for an input voltage of 33.
Nice!

I wasn't trying to imply anything about your setup but just using your post to mention bypass diodes, etc.
2oldman
Explorer II
Jun 24, 2017
rbpru wrote:
If you put my TT in the sun it becomes an easy bake oven.

I doubt I could generate enough solar to run the AC in full sun.

Charging a 100 amp-hour battery at the recommended 10 to 12 amps also takes a lot of sun.

I do not see any practical solution to solar boon docking except to forgo most of the 120 volt energy suckers.

I am curious what others do.
Mine only becomes an oven at ambient 80°+. I find plenty of places to dry camp where it doesn't get that hot.

You can't.

Yes, for a 50% drained battery you'll need a good whole day, at least.

If by 'practical' you mean how much it costs, then yeah, forgo the inverter and anything 120v. But it's quite practical to have lots of solar, big batteries, and an inverter. And don't park in the shade!
rbpru
Explorer II
Jun 24, 2017
While panels on the roof are hard to steal. It means you have to park in the sun. If you put my TT in the sun it becomes an easy bake oven.

I doubt I could generate enough solar to run the AC in full sun.

Charging a 100 amp-hour battery at the recommended 10 to 12 amps also takes a lot of sun.

I do not see any practical solution to solar boon docking except to forgo most of the 120 volt energy suckers.

I am curious what others do.
CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Jun 24, 2017
pianotuna wrote:
Hi CA Traveler,

My 4 panels have diodes between every cell and are wired in series/parallel for an input voltage of 33.
Nice!

I wasn't trying to imply anything about your setup but just using your post to mention bypass diodes, etc.
2oldman
Explorer II
Jun 24, 2017
Diodes rule!
pianotuna
Nomad III
Jun 24, 2017
Hi CA Traveler,

My 4 panels have diodes between every cell and are wired in series/parallel for an input voltage of 33.
CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Jun 24, 2017
pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

My 2005 panels (256 watts) do a maximum of 17 amps. In leafy shade I get about 6 amps at solar noon. In rain I get about 2 amps. My panels are fixed on the roof of the RV
My 3 roof mounted serial panels have 3 bypass diodes each giving me 9 panel sections and they do a very good job with shade and certainly better than parallel panels.

And my MPPT controller was "free" if you will because the larger 24V panels were much less cost/watt than the equivalent 12V panels in 2014. Plus my panels are mounted higher off of the roof so that there is a bare minimum of rig related shadows on the panels.

Of course moving panels to full sun provides more power but I had no desire to have portable 24V panels or the equivalent 12V panels.

So those were my options and choices.

Haven't recorded solar rain performance as I love hearing the rain at night time only. :B :B :B
time2roll
Nomad
Jun 24, 2017
You do not need full sun all day for the solar to be effective. Conservation also goes a long way.

OTOH I can't imagine setting up among the tent crowds and fire up a generator. Even a Honda at idle will drown out natures pleasant noises.

Of course real boondocking out by yourself you can get the loudest stinkiest cheapest generator all you want and let 'er rip 24/7.
Sam_Spade
Explorer
Jun 24, 2017
2oldman wrote:

Camping where it's sunny is a much better use of your solar investment.

BUT.....in the summer time when it is HOT, you may negate most of that solar gain by having to run one or two air conditioners FULL TIME just to keep from cooking inside the camper in the sun.
2oldman
Explorer II
Jun 24, 2017
4aSong wrote:
I cannot see having to continually move the RV to keep my roof mounted solar in the sun, much easier to move the portable solar.
No, the OP questioned theft.

Camping where it's sunny is a much better use of your solar investment.

Forum Discussion

Solar vs generator

60 Replies

About Travel Trailer Group

Related Content

Portable Solar Generators

Generator noise reduction

Generator operation

Another solar question.

Portable Solar Generators