72cougarxr7 wrote:
gbopp wrote:
Here's another option.
The Real Poor Mans Spray Foam.
And, get one of These.
For a small project, it may work well and be cheaper than the DIT kits.
Interesting, I have never seen these in use before. Looks like it would work great on the walls, although using it vertically overhead on my ceiling may be another story.
wonder how many cans of "Great Stuff" it would take!
Assuming the cavity in the ceiling is 5" at the center and slopes to 2" at the wall, 15' trailer length, 7.5' trailer width, you would have about 34 cu. ft. to fill. In the video example, the author achieved 1/2 cu. ft. per can. Using his example, you would need 68 cans to fill the ceiling.
If you could achieve a good coverage with the cans, be aware that the urethane used in the cans does shrink with time and you may end up with spaces around objects and the perimeter. #2 Contractor grade foam does not have that drawback.
FWIW, I spent two weeks insulating my 22' trailer. I used sheet foam and every cavity was cut to the dimensions of the cavity (they were not all square and ecual). Spaces in the ceiling were double filled for the most part with a piece of bat insulation on top to meet the crown of the roof. I also have a full vapor barrier on the inside and a 1/4" EP thermal break on the inside wall faces. After painting the roof with white elastomeric paint, the temperature inside the cabin went down 15-20f. I eliminated old jalousie windows and replaced them with Low-E sliders.
The largest difference, besides the increased R-value is the loss of noise. It is hard to describe but every visitor feels it immediately. It is dead quiet inside.
Good luck with your project. If it was me, I'd skip the spray because of expense and use foam sheets. It's a bit more work but worth it.
There are pictures of the foam installlation in the restoration thread in my signature,
the Cowboy/Hilton
