Steering wheel angle while towing

BenK wrote:
IMHO...greasing will reduce, in part, how they work to manage sway/yaw

Most all use friction of some sort. Some friction and an over center
system (that then goes into a friction mode).

That is why they make noise...over coming the friction and the over
center point. So defeats part of their functional attributes

Even the silent Anderson system uses friction material on the ball's
tapered shank.

So they all will leave the setup off center by the amount of friction
vs the setup and whether it went past center to center, if that makes
sense to you folks

The only system I've seen to date that does NOT use friction is the
Blue Ox and will be my next WD system. They do have a kinda sorta
over center method, but it's to do with the two spring bars...not a
cammed system. The other WD cammed systems also have this inherent
in that the two spring bars push/pull back to a null position...or
try to

Oh...there is another, but I'm no longer interested in the Pullrite
system. Still think it's the best of the best, but the fact that it
stays with the vehicle when not towing and the biggie...reduced ground
clearance is something am not fond of

Pullrite's do NOT use friction, but manages by removing the lever arm
to the TV's rear axle (greatly reduced to a few inches vs a few feet).
To behave much like a Fiver's PIN location over the TV's rear axle

Guess the HA & the like into this, as they project the pivot point to
be nearer the TV's rear axle center line. I've never experienced the
'bump' folks talk about, but am not interested in the HA either

Ben,

I'm quite interested in the over-center claim of the Blue Ox hitch. I once got into a discussion with Ron Gratz about how the tilt of the shank (and forward WD pivot angles) might affect a self-centering tendency of the standard WD set-up. An innovative gentleman by the name of Andy Thomson has surmised that every WD hitch can be self-centering if the tilt is adjusted correctly. Ron disagreed in theory, and I hoped to measure it one day to determine if the WD arms did increase tension in a turn.

I do plan to replace my Hensley with an ordinary, low priced Eaz-Lift hitch to speed up reconnection. I first owned an Eaz-Lift that came with my first 30' TT camper and it performed flawlessly with no friction bars needed. Friction bars can be added at any time on this low priced hitch and it is the original WD company with all others being knock-offs. I gladly used it on my second 30 footer until I sold it with the first TT. I've missed the 5 minute ease of hitchin' up ever since. The Hensley actually is more stable in very high winds, but it can occasionally be cumbersome to get perfect square re-alignment for reconnection. I'll save the Hensley in case I ever tour cross-country, or get an unstable TT.

I still am surprised to learn that the friction of an Equal-i-zer sticks to one side for more than a few feet after a turn, and mere lube cures it. It would take a perfect turn every time, with no S waggle after, to arrive at a steady side force. OTOH, soft, underinflated passenger tires might off-set everytime they are loaded.

Wes
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