Steering wheel angle while towing
Just picked up a 2007 Nash 27E. Noticed on the drive home the same steering wheel "problem" I had with a prior trailer. Wondering if anyone has ever seen this? It seems like with the trailer hooked...
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I wouldn't put a big rise ball, like a 2", on it just yet. That's a bandaid, IMHO.
The equalizers setup different than other WDH.
Yes your L brackets are too tall, so add 1 or 2 washers and drop 1 or 2 holes. That will get you a lot closer to paralleling the frame. I would start off trying 1 washer, if you don't want 8, and 2 holes. Then add the "bracket jacket" and that will give you about 1/3 of a hole back and get you close to paralleling the frame.
Then hit a scale (the one in Horseshoe Bend is free and always turned on, as are most state run scales when closed) and see what your tongue weight is, and how much weight you are transferring. There is a lot of tension on those bars, as indicated by the bend, you may be able to do what I mentioned and still be good in the transfer department. If you need a little more look for a 1" rise ball, you will gain a little more tension but not be too tall.
If you still aren't getting the weight transferred that you want/need then a 12K setup might be better. Maybe I can make you a deal on mine, as I want to step up to a 14K setup and I am in Kuna.
The spacing he has is as designed by "Equal-i-zer", and is how they are supposed to be setup. You can add a little, as a 1" rise ball is really only 5/8" taller, but a 2" is too much for that setup and if needed something else is wrong.
The equalizers setup different than other WDH.
Yes your L brackets are too tall, so add 1 or 2 washers and drop 1 or 2 holes. That will get you a lot closer to paralleling the frame. I would start off trying 1 washer, if you don't want 8, and 2 holes. Then add the "bracket jacket" and that will give you about 1/3 of a hole back and get you close to paralleling the frame.
Then hit a scale (the one in Horseshoe Bend is free and always turned on, as are most state run scales when closed) and see what your tongue weight is, and how much weight you are transferring. There is a lot of tension on those bars, as indicated by the bend, you may be able to do what I mentioned and still be good in the transfer department. If you need a little more look for a 1" rise ball, you will gain a little more tension but not be too tall.
If you still aren't getting the weight transferred that you want/need then a 12K setup might be better. Maybe I can make you a deal on mine, as I want to step up to a 14K setup and I am in Kuna.
MitchF150 wrote:
I know this isn't an Equal-I-Zer brand hitch, but I'm just showing it to point out that your ball needs to be 'higher' so there is more space between the coupler and where your bars go into the head.
The spacing he has is as designed by "Equal-i-zer", and is how they are supposed to be setup. You can add a little, as a 1" rise ball is really only 5/8" taller, but a 2" is too much for that setup and if needed something else is wrong.
