Suburban 2500…6.0 vs 8.1 vs Excursion V10
I have been really considering buying a Suburban 2500 from the early to mid 2000's. We are an SUV family and I think we will be well served by our future TT with a Suburban 2500. My wife and I ri...
Forum Discussion
The 1 ton dually has more frontal area and higher rolling resistance. Even though
it has the same drive train and rear axle
The guys I've helped install a dually kit on their Sub's all reported a loss in MPG
A lot has to do with rolling resistance. I keep all four on my Sub at 80PSI. Both
for the reduced rolling resistance and because I drive HARD.
The 10 inch wide rims also reduce rolling resistance and improve handling (my
kind)
Admit that the Michelin LTX's did get a tiny bit better MPG because they
were of harder rubber compound, but they cracked
A live axle front can be made to almost have the precision as an IFS. ON my 1973
K5 Blazer, I changed the suspension to a GM 14 bolt rear and Dana 60 front. With
new leaf packs
The front also had a custom panhard rod (I made it), which was the key to the
better steering.
All of my trucks have very stiff sidewalls and wider rims where ever I could
afford. That increases handling (reduces slip angle)
The GMT800 and GMT900's are more car like than I want. Drive them all to see
which you like better
Also note that with the big block (almost diesel like) weighs more and will
wear out the steering joints sooner. I grease mine at each engine oil change
The 8.1L no longer had an open 'V' underneath the intake manifold, which reduced
the 'misting' consumption of engine oil. GM uses stainless piston rings and one
of the Suburban forum members touring the GM plant talked to their engineers who
told him that some take over 20K to even 40K to fully break them in (seat to the
cylinder properly). Especially if synthetic engine oil is used
Mine did not and continues to NOT consume engine oil...till the oil starts to
wear out. Know to change when it consumes a quart or so around 5K miles
it has the same drive train and rear axle
The guys I've helped install a dually kit on their Sub's all reported a loss in MPG
A lot has to do with rolling resistance. I keep all four on my Sub at 80PSI. Both
for the reduced rolling resistance and because I drive HARD.
The 10 inch wide rims also reduce rolling resistance and improve handling (my
kind)
Admit that the Michelin LTX's did get a tiny bit better MPG because they
were of harder rubber compound, but they cracked
A live axle front can be made to almost have the precision as an IFS. ON my 1973
K5 Blazer, I changed the suspension to a GM 14 bolt rear and Dana 60 front. With
new leaf packs
The front also had a custom panhard rod (I made it), which was the key to the
better steering.
All of my trucks have very stiff sidewalls and wider rims where ever I could
afford. That increases handling (reduces slip angle)
The GMT800 and GMT900's are more car like than I want. Drive them all to see
which you like better
Also note that with the big block (almost diesel like) weighs more and will
wear out the steering joints sooner. I grease mine at each engine oil change
The 8.1L no longer had an open 'V' underneath the intake manifold, which reduced
the 'misting' consumption of engine oil. GM uses stainless piston rings and one
of the Suburban forum members touring the GM plant talked to their engineers who
told him that some take over 20K to even 40K to fully break them in (seat to the
cylinder properly). Especially if synthetic engine oil is used
Mine did not and continues to NOT consume engine oil...till the oil starts to
wear out. Know to change when it consumes a quart or so around 5K miles
