I was just a wee bit "understated" wasn't I? Sorry about that. I just grasping at words to try and find a way to convince you, without digging up GM's diagrammatic line drawings and dimensional data for each of the frames (which I have in pdf form, but on a different computer)converting them to jpgs, hosting them some place online, and posting them so that you too could see and be assured of the differences.
But it is easy enough to look at the outsides of the 2500HD pickup versus the 2500 Suburban and see the difference for yourself.
- The frame channel depth can easily be compared without having to get on the ground by simply peering through the open space in the rear wheel wells.
- The shortest possible wheelbase to a GM 2500 pickup is 133.6", which is still 4" longer than the longest (and only) wheelbase of a 2500 Suburban/YukonXL, which is 130"... so the midsection of the frames between the wheels by definition already have to be different in length...
- And the midsections are also different in purpose. The mid section pickup frame is designed to support and stabilize a separated bed and cab that articulates independently, whereas the midsection Suburban frame is designed to support and stabilize a single unitized body. The differences in the frame rails between the two types of bodies can be seen in the upturns and downturns (and lack thereof, and location thereof) in the frame flanges, as well as differences in channel depth and flange width and material thickness.
- Further variability increases with wheelbase and type of cab as well.
- The rear section of the frames aft of axle differ in purpose also, where the pickup only carries a spare tire, but the Suburban holds a fuel tank AND carries the spare tire. This makes a CRITICAL difference in the depth and design of the tubing and/or H-frame CROSSMEMBER(s), as the case may be, between the two types of vehicles. Obviously, without the fuel tank in the way, the pickup can "spare" haha much more room between the rear frame rails above the spare tire for frame strengthening structure commensurate with the hauling capacities of the pickup.
- Rear spring leaf lengths, and spring hanger stamping designs, also differ between the SUV and the pickup 2500. Even where the GVWRs are the same, the anticipated range of variability in actual weights between empty and loaded is much larger in a pickup than in an SUV. In very generalized numbers, the SUV might have an 1,800 lb cargo capacity, whereas the pickup might have a 3,600 lb cargo capacity (equipment depending). Obviously, a full unit bodied SUV with seats for 9 passengers is going to weigh more "empty", than a regular cab long bed will weigh "empty". Hence the rear suspension design in the SUV is optimized for a narrower range of potential loading, whereas the rear suspension in the pickup is optimized for a wider range of potential loading.
The only 2500 semi "pickup" that actually does share the same frame... front, middle, and rear... with the 2500 Suburban is the 2500 Avalanche. It too, is a unibody, despite having an open back. There is a structural reason why the Avalanche is designed to have "rally bars" in the rear that angle backwards from the rear window to the short bed. That angled back bar, covered in plastic, is the critical gusset that unifies bed and cab areas, that takes the place of the fully covered canopy that encloses the rear greenhouse of the Suburban.
Ok, I thought I saw that horse's eyes blink, so I gave it another beating.
On to your question comparing the two Cequent hitches... here again, there is more than meets the eye at first glance between the two.
I'm running out of time with this posting, so I can't pull out the microscope this time around, but do notice
- the additional hole in the rear mounting cleat on the Titan version
- the cast steel entrance collar on the mouth opening of the Titan receiver
- the downturned strengthening bend of the chain loop gusset on the Titan
- the larger holes to accommodate stronger chain loops.
- the receiver tube passes all the way through the cross tube, and is welded on both ends. No upper gusset is needed with that design, that cannot twist out. The top and bottom chords of the cross tube (where the greatest tension and compression occur) are left in tact.
- there actually may be a side plate material thickness difference between the 41930 and the 45013. I would need to verify that first before saying for certain. This was information I knew off the top of my head a decade or more ago, but have since forgotten. I can tell you this... I own both a 45013 and a 45014 (different vehicle application).
The 45014 is made with 5/16" thick side plates... of this I am absolutely certain. I've mic'd the side plate thickness, after being informed by Reese application engineering that increasing plate thickness was their strategy for side plate stability in certain Titan hitches, instead of adding bends to bottom edges of the plate.
Since the 45013 does have stiffening bends formed along the bottom edge of the plate, and since I can't recall what the plate thickness was when I measured that model of Titan, I'm not confident that the Titan is any thicker than the Drawtite Ultra Frame, but there is that possibility. However, I am confident that the Titan has the two extra mounting holes (one on each forward plate mounting cleat), but you can see that in the photos.
I bought the 45013 about a dozen years ago, when the writing became clear on the wall, after Cequent acquired the formerly separate and competing Reese, DrawTite, Hidden Hitch, BullDog, and other long standing brand names of towing equipment manufactures in North America... that American and Canadian production was about to shutter and get shuffled to China.
However, since I've not had a problem with my GM OEM hitch, I've not replaced it. I just kept the 45013 new in the box, stored for the day and time when I think the GM hitch will no longer be adequate for the 2500 Suburban's ratings. For me, that day has never arrived yet, but I see now that the 45013 imported from overseas costs more today at some resellers than the North American made version did a dozen years ago. $408 is a significant chunk of change, although I did find a reseller that claims to sell the same hitch for $225, free shipping.
There is yet another reason why I did not rush to replace the stock GM hitch with the Titan. And the DrawTite and Curt hitches mentioned in this thread are all three guilty of the same sin... that being there load path through the side plates is conferred upon the open floating edges of the lower frame flanges, rather than vertical web supported sides of the lower frame flanges.
The side plates, in all three aftermarket hitches, lining up with the unsupported open end of the C channel frame, regardless of upturned or downturned lips, still applies load leverage across the width of the flange.
If you held your left hand in front of you, forming it into a C shape, with your thumb acting as the lower flange, and your fingers acting as the top flange, and the bulk of your palm acting as the vertical web of the frame... and then took a yoyo string that had a 10 lb plate weight attached, and slipped the yoyo finger loop over the very tip of your thumb, at the fingernail, and left it there... how much strain would that apply to your thumb?
Now, slide that yoyo fingerloop down your thumb, moving it closer to the palm of your hand, as far as it will go. Would not the weight of the 10lb plate dangling at the end of the yoyo string be more bearable, the closer the string is moved to where the root of the thumb is supported?
Such is the same idea with line of load transfer through the side plate of the hitch. For some reason, probably due to cross tube length, as well as the rear spring hanger support stamping underneath the frame, most of the aftermarket hitches for the 2500 Suburban align the side plates with the open, non supported edges of the frame flanges... whereas all three of these hitch brands align the sideplates of their aftermarket hitches fitting other vehicles with the vertical webs of the frames, on the supported edge of the frame flanges.
This is another issue to stare at and think about for a while, as you consider what you are "improving" (or applying excess stress to, beyond the OEM's intent) with any hitch change.
