Sway control bar >>>

I used the ezelift system and sway control bar with a previous smaller lighter trailer. It is not nearly as good as my equal-i zer. I do not get pushed around by transports passiing

First step is to resolve whatever is causing the sway, then consider an anti-sway device.

Jeremiah,
Thanks for the reply. I frequently hear folks say the friction device built into various hitch designs is somehow superior to the Husky type friction bars. I also hear them say the hitch with built in friction sway control "prevents" sway while the Husky type bars only "control" it.

That sounds like something you'd expect to hear from a politician instead of an RV'r. I just don't understand how they are different as they both use friction as the sway controlling force and they just go about creating that friction in different manners.

hohenwald48 wrote:

ReferDog wrote:
Get an Equal-lzier with correct bar's 1000 or 1200# go by hitch weight

Why is that better? What's wrong with the add on friction devices?

Absolutely NOTHING. Both types are friction sway controls.

The only difference is that in order to increase friction on an Equal-i-zer and the clones is to increase tongue weight and adjust the hitch.

Sorry, its not for me... I much prefer my old fashioned WD hitches and sway bars... and yes I tried the new fangled expensive hitches... they offer zero over a well set up standard hitch and friction sway control (two if towing 24 ft long or more)... as a matter of fact they can be a negative

If you set up a integrated hitch incorrectly then you have a terrible handling rig.. at least with an add on sway control you can retain friction sway control if the WD hitch isn't dialed in... or heaven forbid.. you experience a WD hitch failure. (Something I have experienced with dual cam sway control and it is NO fun)

I have a back up Weight Carrying draw bar with a sway bar tab that travels with me when I tow. That way I can pull my trailer and use my sway bar in the event of another WD hitch failure.

When we go back to a TT I will do the same... I will have a WC draw bar with dual friction sway bar mounts welded on that will stay with me every time I tow.

Nothing worse than being ready to leave the campground or on the side of the road with a broke hitch and no safe way to get the trailer home. Something a simple draw bar with a few sway bar tabs could do easily.

That means having a vehicle that can handle WC of the tongue weight that your vehicle has.. but thats for another thread.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

ReferDog wrote:
Get an Equal-lzier with correct bar's 1000 or 1200# go by hitch weight

Why is that better? What's wrong with the add on friction devices?

Get an Equal-lzier with correct bar's 1000 or 1200# go by hitch weight

You can get Curt sway controls from Amazon for around $39. They make a driver side and pax side. For some reason the Driver side was around $80 and the pax side was $39. I bought two pax side units. Took the bar out of one and flipped it over for the drivers side. Works fine except the name sticker is upside down.

kennyd63 wrote:
I have a 25 footer T.T. which it sways when windy conditions are present, and semis pass me by.
I am looking on buying a sway bar control bar made by Husky, I notice they sell a right hand and a left hand. My question is on the catalogue they recommend that I buy the L/H and R/H is this is really necessary?.:h

Please advise

Thank you to all for your input in this matter.

Are you sure the camper is swaying? Does it keep wiggling after the semi has passed or does it immediately go back to tracking straight? Just about any rig is going to get pushed around by gusts or passing semis. Before I got our Andersen hitch, we had the EZ Lift. I never had any real sway problems, but didn't like the little wiggles from being passed. I installed one sway bar and it helped. Then the truck and trailer moved as a unit. The Andersen hitch does the same. I would just get one bar to start.
Good luck.

In truth it shouldn't sway period, UNLESS, you induce sway during some sort of emergency maneuver where you jerk the steering wheel..
Best advice. Adjust the hitch to the point the Tt does not sway in normal driving. THEN add sway control, for those times when you HAVE to jerk it around. For you see. Sway control bars do NOT prevent sway. That is not their function. they are only to help regain control once sway is introduced to the equasion

I think the factors are:
enough tongue weight - more helps
trailer level or a bit nose down - never nose up
a good hitch system - I like my Equal-i-zer
all tires at max pressure