mikeratz wrote:
-Crewcab 4x4.Payload is 2550lbs (Door sticker)
-I need the levelling kit not for "looks" but to help eliminate dragging front end on the dirt roads I drive on for work.
-The Roadmaster I was sold to help with some sag when loaded and it did lift the rear end up a little although I realize it doesn't transfer weight. Thinking it probably will be removed with a heavier WHD installed.
I will consider removing the levelling kit but not sure if I can. If I were to purchase an Equalizer hitch like a few people have recommended, what size would you recommend? 1000 or 1200lb? Would that recommendation allow for both scenerios of levelling kit in or out?
Looks like you have enough payload, that is good.
The leveling is most likely a contributor to your issue, that removed the natural rake and pushed some of the natural empty weight back to the rear unloaded. You have to think of the Center of Gravity (COG) and where it is distributed. A kids "teeter totter" is a fine example of how COG can move back and forth.
The front of your vehicle has more weight than the rear when unloaded since that is where the heaviest parts of the vehicle are (IE engine, transmission, 4x4 axle and most of your cab). The rear has pretty much a little of your rear cab and bed and rear axle.
So, most vehicles tend to have 60% or a bit more of the unloaded weight on the front axle and 40% or a bit less on the rear axle with the normal raked stance.
Lifting the front or dropping the rear to level changes that weight (COG) so now you may be closer to 50% between both axles.. Less than idea for plunking a bunch of weight far behind the rear axles (bumper pull trailer).
Now to compensate, you most likely will need to use stiffer WD bars than you should.. That brings out some new side effects like taking too much weight off the rear (believe it or not, it IS possible to do this) and losing traction on the rear wheels. You do also run risks of bending or even ripping your trailer tongue right off the trailer (don't laugh, there are folks who have had issues with this and they did not intentionally use heavier WD bars).
As far as recommending what bars to use, I can't really say. I will defer that question and answers to all of the WD specialists on this forum..
I am more concerned about your need for stiffer WD bars than normal to compensate for a suspension change from factory specs and the unintentional side effects which could happen using them.