Sway Problem / Need Help
I am towing a 253RB Sunset Trail(30') with a F150 Ecoboost and am having a hard time with it if there is ANY wind at all. For the most part it tows ok on a calm day but if there is any wind at all it...
Forum Discussion
An Andersen shouldn’t ever be considered if a WDH is needed. It isn’t one.
Of the obsolete hitch types (non-Hensley patent) the original WDH is still the best. The Reese Dual Cam. (An Equalizer IS NOT in its class).
The DC takes more time to first set up — and benefits again by adjustment from significant weight changes to vehicles — that “sensitivity” pays.
A 4WD pickup with a lift kit describes the worst possible tow vehicle.
In the same way, a TALL conventional travel trailer (slides) on leaf springs — a box without aero design — is the worst of its type.
The combination isn’t worth owning, IMO. Not if one really wants to travel.
The pickup when loaded for camping and with passengers SHOULD BE close to 50/50 in weight distribution BEFORE hitching. (Cat Scale proof).
The purpose of WD is to re-distribute TW approximately 1/3-13-1/3: Steer, Drive, Tandem. Ideally it shows the solo truck Steer value and Hitched (tensioned) Steer value as the same. The Drive ought to then be 10% greater than Steer when finished.
Tires are inflated to the load value pressure. No higher. TT tires to sidewall max.
Better than stock shock absorbers a requirement. Even a brand new truck.
The trailer needs them also, but changing to Dexter Torflex axles the best way forward.
The pickup bed WILL move against the suspension. A Panhard Rod is a GREAT addition. And/Or upsizing anti-roll bar size one step, front and rear.
Braking tests are mandatory. Properly hitched, the combined rig should stop FASTER than the loaded TV, solo.
Contributor Ron Gratz posted a Three Pass Scale Method back in 2010. That’s the minimum. The start. THERE IS A RANGE OF ADJUSTMENT FOR A GIVEN COMBINED RIG. Need to know both ends of it.
.
Of the obsolete hitch types (non-Hensley patent) the original WDH is still the best. The Reese Dual Cam. (An Equalizer IS NOT in its class).
The DC takes more time to first set up — and benefits again by adjustment from significant weight changes to vehicles — that “sensitivity” pays.
A 4WD pickup with a lift kit describes the worst possible tow vehicle.
In the same way, a TALL conventional travel trailer (slides) on leaf springs — a box without aero design — is the worst of its type.
The combination isn’t worth owning, IMO. Not if one really wants to travel.
The pickup when loaded for camping and with passengers SHOULD BE close to 50/50 in weight distribution BEFORE hitching. (Cat Scale proof).
The purpose of WD is to re-distribute TW approximately 1/3-13-1/3: Steer, Drive, Tandem. Ideally it shows the solo truck Steer value and Hitched (tensioned) Steer value as the same. The Drive ought to then be 10% greater than Steer when finished.
Tires are inflated to the load value pressure. No higher. TT tires to sidewall max.
Better than stock shock absorbers a requirement. Even a brand new truck.
The trailer needs them also, but changing to Dexter Torflex axles the best way forward.
The pickup bed WILL move against the suspension. A Panhard Rod is a GREAT addition. And/Or upsizing anti-roll bar size one step, front and rear.
Braking tests are mandatory. Properly hitched, the combined rig should stop FASTER than the loaded TV, solo.
Contributor Ron Gratz posted a Three Pass Scale Method back in 2010. That’s the minimum. The start. THERE IS A RANGE OF ADJUSTMENT FOR A GIVEN COMBINED RIG. Need to know both ends of it.
.
