sway

That's a heavy girl you have there at #6300 dry... I'm towing a #7000 GVWR 2019 Rockwood 2511S and it's all I want to tow with my F150...

"Sway" can mean a lot of different things to different people, but in the end, it's whatever you feel comfortable or not comfortable with when towing, and since every rig is different in weights and all, no way to really tell you what will work for you or not??

You are just going to have to deal with what you got and go from there and adjust accordingly.

Good luck! Mitch

Most common causes of trailer sway (list not in any particular order). Trailer sway can be caused by any one, or a combination of two or more. Many are a simple check / fix.

1. Insufficient tongue weight. Must be minimum of ten percent of total trailer weight.

2. Towing trailer with nose up attitude. Trailer nose should be level to slightly down attitude. Maybe your hitch ball is too high.

3. Insufficient weight loss restoration on truck's front axle. When you hang the tongue weight on the hitch, the effects on the truck are like a see-saw, it adds weight to rear axle, takes weight off the front axle, and magnifies the pivot point at the hitch ball. Causes - weight distribution hitch is not rated for your tongue weight, or it is not adjusted correctly. If there is too much weight missing from front truck axles, even subconscious hand movement (could be simple as breathing) causes the trailer to wiggle on that magnified pivot point.

4. Truck is loaded beyond it's payload / GVWR. Look at your tire / loading sticker (on drivers door jamb). It will have a number for "max occupant / cargo weight". That is your truck's capacity to carry the combined weight of everything (including aftermarket accessories (bed cover / caps, bed liners, step bars, etc), added hitch / sway equipment and trailer tongue weight) and everybody that was not in it, when it left the factory.

5. Bad roads.

6. Tire sidewall flexing. If you've got (P) passenger rated tires, they are known for having softer sidewalls than a (LT) light truck tire.

7. Unbalanced / under inflated tires on truck, trailer, or both.

8. Wind.

9. Bent / misaligned trailer axles. This one is rare.

Looking at your numbers (tow rating and trailer's dry weight), I suspect a weight issue. That "max tow weight rating" was calculated without passengers and cargo. They're calculation included a driver, weight distribution hitch, and the estimated tongue weight from a 7600 lb trailer, would use up all the truck's payload. If you add passengers and cargo, the truck no longer has payload to carry the tongue weight of a 7600 lb trailer and the towing capacity is reduced. Save your money, air bags won't fix that. If you've got cargo in the truck, it may help to move that to the trailer, preferably above or slightly forward of the axles.

Average trailer load (dishes, pots and pans, camp chairs, clothes, bedding, BBQ equipment, groceries, water, etc) weighs 800 to 1000 lbs. Your trailer weighed 6300 when it left the factory, probably 6500 when it left the dealers lot, and fully loaded, it could weigh 75 - 7600 lbs.

Tongue weight is NOT a constant number, it goes up and down during every trip. It averages 12 - 13 percent of loaded trailer weight, but can be higher. Depending on location (in relation to trailer axles), holding tanks can have a significant impact on tongue weight. I have a trailer (8300 loaded) with black / grey tanks above the axles, fresh tank behind the axles, and galley tank up front. My tongue weight can be anywhere between 975 and 1225 lbs. All depends on fluid levels in the tanks. Percentage wise I run 11.5 to 14.5 during any particular trip.

True towing capacity is limited to the weakest link in the truck's overall ratings (GVWR, GCVWR, Payload, Tow Rating, axle weight, tire weight, and hitch weight). Most often the weak link is payload.

Note: Your uncomfortable feeling could just be caused by being on the edge of the truck's capabilities. I've been there. I watched the weather very closely. Windy days were unpleasant, and if the weather report said breezy, I stayed off the road.

Good advice already.

Here's mine......in the spring of 2021, order a 3/4 ton and rest peacefully.

I do have sway control - E2, Fastway Hitch with sway control, Round Bar, 10k rating

the hitch weight is 700#

The trucks tires are upgraded to nitro dura grappler stock size of 275/65R18 E..

The trailer tires were upgraded to GoodYear Endurance 2065/75R14

Sway can be many things. How level? You may need to add some toung weight. Make sure the wdh is set up corectly, messure the space before and after. Sometimes its better to have the toung down just a bit. Are your propane tanks filled? Also, loading of the camper can effect sway. Too much weight of the back of the trailer can cause it. We are talking trailor sway right? Not like the back of the truck moving a bit? Make sure all your tires are aired up. The weight might be too much for your tires , you probably have passanger tires on the truck. Your camper sounds a bit heavy for the truck also. Add in the propane battery etc and I'll bet you are at or over your tow weight.

FYI - this thread is likely to go down the 'overweight' path very quickly. When you go to the scales, you may be surprised at what you find. It is highly likely that you are near or over your GCVWR on the 2.7, and you may or may not be exceeding payload depending on your configuration and set-up. That said, for the short term issue you are trying to cover, here's a few things to consider...

First - are you sure you are dialed in with your WD hitch? The fact that you are 'sitting level' doesn't necessarily mean anything. You need to do the before and after measurements of the wheel wells to make sure it is transferring enough weight off the rear axle. Again - if you scale properly you will get some insight here as well.

Second - are your WD bars also sway control? They aren't necessarily one in the same.

Third - how is your tongue weight? Again, scales will be necessary here, but you want to make sure it is sufficient. The general range is 10-15% of total trailer weight - I find ours is best around 12%. If you are way out of line on this number, it can cause problems.

Fourth - How are you loaded? You said that you only had clothes for 2 in the trailer. Is that all you had, or did you have a bunch of stuff in the truck bed? You are likely pushing your GVWR, which means that a heavy load of gear in the bed could be a part of the problem as well.

All in all, I would start with these things. Make sure you have your setup dialed in before you try to branch out into band-aids. Airbags are very helpful in some situations, while people seem to debate whether or not they actually benefit with sway (I've never used them, so I have no opinion). In either case, that's a lot of money to invest on a truck you'll be dumping soon - so I'd work hard on making sure everything else is covered first!

Start at the scales - it will tell you a lot.

You have WD bars, but do you have sway control?

What is the gross weight of the trailer? Dry weight is meaningless.

Adding air bags doesn't do much for sway. More for porpoising or bottoming out. If you truck sits level hooked up, I wouldn't bother (but others might).