Forum Discussion
EstorilM
Oct 02, 2016Explorer
ng2951 wrote:
You are going to need to size the trailer to your tow vehicle if you have a TV you are planning to use.
Whatever TV you have selected it will need a tow package. There are several things a tow package has but most importantly it has a transmission cooler and brake controller.
You are still going to need to focus on GVWR and other factors. You want to avoid front wheel drive vehicles.
As you will be on unimproved surfaces 4WD will be essential unless you are looking for frequent tows.
You also need to mention what you are willing to spend. Does it need to be new, or are you willing to go used while be aware a trailer can hide serious problems even from the experienced.
Mission creep can be a real problem. Smaller lighter generally means better MPG. BUT smaller might be much more trying.
Pop-ups can be nice but you have to clear everything off the counter tops before you close up. It also means more setup time and when you are time taking an hour to setup can be exhausting.
You need to decide how you are going to work in your trailer. Is there enough room to work?
Thanks for the reply! As I mentioned in my OP (which I realize was kinda a novel.. oops) I'll be fine with the tow vehicle config as-is, but I certainly may upgrade in a couple years.
The LR3 basically came with everything (minus brake controller) which I had to install anyways for the horse trailer. I've been on many road trips with that - all-aluminum featherlite but xlong xtall with changing room and side-unload doors. With both horses and gear it's probably ~6200lbs. The 24' Donzi was a little less around 55-5800, no issues and stable at speed and in winds.
For an SUV, the wheelbase on the LR3 isn't horrible - but I guess they try to keep it short for the offroad breakover, approach, and departure angles. It's about 8" longer than the older range rover sport I had (identical platform / driveline / suspension) was also a VERY stable with the boat. Due to the leveling sensors, stability sensors and their weird "integrated body frame" (unibody on a ladder basically) they specifically say NOT to use weight distribution, which I never have (yes, I said that right.. it's all over their manuals and website). They all have heat-exchanger engine oil coolers and trans coolers, receiver, pre-wiring etc stock.
Can't get too worried about MPG - it basically is what it is. :( The RRS got ~16 on the highway with the boat somehow, but the horse trailer & LR3 is BRUTAL at about 11; I'd expect the travel trailer to be a little worse - bummer I'm stuck with premium fuel too! I suppose that's in-line with most of the gas pickups. I guess the new trucks with the 8 speeds and aluminum components are pretty good now though.
Definitely want to go diesel next. Even my GF's diesel liberty gets 37 on road trips with 152k miles on it! The gas V6 was rated at like 19hwy haha. Unfortunately Land Rover is just now getting their diesels into the US, and I won't be able to afford those for a looong time!
coolmom42 wrote:
You will find happy owners and sad owners of almost every brand. Any trailer can be junk in a few years if you don't maintain it, and any trailer can stay in good shape for a long time if you DO maintain it.
There are lots of people on this site who have had horrible experiences with Camping World.
Almost all manufacturers use the same few brands of components for things like AC, water pumps, furnaces, converters, refrigerators and cooktops.
If your tow limit is 7700 lb, start looking at about 80% (or lower) of for your GROSS WEIGHT of the trailer. No vehicle performs well when pushed to its limits. Then consider that about 12% of the trailer weight will be on the tongue, and that becomes part of the cargo of the tow vehicle. Add in the hitch, people, dog, and stuff that's in the tow vehicle, and make sure you are not over the cargo capacity of the tow vehicle.
I would urge you to find 2-3 dealers within a reasonable drive from your home and start looking at the brands they have. If there is ever warranty work to be done, you will need a good dealer. Then look online at those brands and search for a floor plan that you think you would like.
My personal preference is for a front bed/rear bath/mid kitchen, but each to his/her own. A bedroom with a divider wall and door that closes is nice if you don't keep the same hours as your travel companion.
Land Rovers don't have a super long wheel base so you will likely need some sway control and weight distribution from your hitch, so consider that in the price of the trailer.
Very well said and a good point about the different opinions and experiences. I'm hoping I can maybe post a few floor plans and models and see if people have been happy with them.
What should I watch out for about camping world specifically? They seemed great but yikes, so does every car dealership out there and we all know how that usually works out! I liked the coleman and keystone models (at my price range anyways) but I do have Cruise America, El Monte, and Reins within about 20 miles of me. Camping World was just on the highway on our road trip. I guess I need to check the local guys as they'll have an entirely different lineup.
I think the math works out to similar results if I start at gross and work down like you mentioned. Keystone only lists shipping + load which is kinda a pain, but that gets me a gross of 7610, 80% at 6088 for the 232LHS. I guess one could also aim to get a trailer w/ GVWR at or just below their tow ratings, at least if they knew they'd never get near gross on the trailer.
The tongue is interesting though, as I just started noticing last night that certain floor plans dramatically shift the weight.
Another reply mentioned the rear kitchen which I've really started to like, especially combined with the dual entry some of the keystones had. The tongue weight on the 232LHS was only 610. They have a similar 24' with different slide config and bunks (which I DON'T want if possible) that had a 720lb tongue weight! The leveling air suspension handles tongue weight VERY well but obviously I'd want as much mass over the trailer axles as possible.
That 232LHS is a little heavier than I wanted, but it would still be safe. Then it gets confusing because their 262LHS is almost 1000lbs lighter empty (~2500lb load, thus same gross) and tongue is only 545! Just due to no slide out?!
GCWR on the LR3 is pretty good for an SUV; at ~13,500 but that also implies payload comes out of tow capacity when operating at max GCWR right? Which is fine - anything I'd lug in the SUV would be in storage inside the trailer anyways!
Well, except the dog. ;)
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