I loaded my TC in Seattle and it was slightly off cener at the front (2" difference, so 1" off center). It was close at the back, but not touching either side. I didn't have time with daylight to fix it before the trip. We drove to Sacramento over the last couple days and now the camper is close to 3" at the front and touching on one side at the back. I don't have any blocking at the front and don't load it to the front.I use a 3/4" horse mat on Rhino lining and Torklift tie down system. I haven't noticed any shifting in the past. It's possible the mat is flipped from what I normally have it so maybe one side is more slippery. I hate to reload it on the road, but it feels like I have to here.I've seen guide systems that also lock the TC in place. I've also read that the thick mat is bad. The TC mfg recommends 1" plywood and 3/8" rubber mat so the cab-over clears correctly (it clears now, with 3/4" mat and spray liner). I am looking to make a change, so now's the decision time.Does plywood slide on spray in bed liner? Is the thicker mat I'm using creating this issue? The cabover bounces a bit when driving but I'm not sure how much of that is expected or caused by thick mat. All suggestions are appreciated!

If you cut the plywood to fit the truck bed it can't slide. Mine is 5/8" plywood cut in 4 pieces. It is pretty much locked in at the tailgate opening. I put a rubber truck mat designed for my truck model on top of that. Both the plywood and mat should be covering the entire bed. If you just put a sheet of 4' x 8' plywood in the truck it will slide around. The areas in front and behind the fender wells need to be covered.I think I used 3 sheets of plywood to cover the entire bed.

I have a 3/4" bed mat (Ford) on my unlined bed. My Northstar sits on a 2X3" frame to clear the truck roof and lights. I use Torklift fast guns,tight,but not so tight that they will damage the camper. We've done three cross country trips,including off road travel,and have never had the camper move more than a fraction of an inch. You don't have to off load to adjust your camper. Using the legs individually,it is possible to adjust the position of the camper. I would recommend that you block the front of the camper to prevent excessive movement before you make any adjustments. Then tighten your tie downs,just not too tight.

bkenobi wrote: I don't have any blocking at the front and don't load it to the front. I've not heard of anyone getting away with this. Properly adjusted tie downs should pull the camper into the front of the bed, and relying on mats to keep it from sliding forward during hard braking seems risky. If the camper cannot be loaded all the way forward, suggest making blocking job #1.I'm presently running a short bed camper on a long bed truck. Blocking was easily achieved by building a frame out of 2X8s and screws. If you don't need this kind of footage, just stack 2Xs until you have the distance needed. Side blocks can then be added to the front block to stop any side to side motion at the front.

stevenal wrote:bkenobi wrote: I don't have any blocking at the front and don't load it to the front. I've not heard of anyone getting away with this. Properly adjusted tie downs should pull the camper into the front of the bed, and relying on mats to keep it from sliding forward during hard braking seems risky. If the camper cannot be loaded all the way forward, suggest making blocking job #1.I'm presently running a short bed camper on a long bed truck. Blocking was easily achieved by building a frame out of 2X8s and screws. If you don't need this kind of footage, just stack 2Xs until you have the distance needed. Side blocks can then be added to the front block to stop any side to side motion at the front.This is what I thought. As an ME, I've wondered why it's a good idea to rely on friction and tie downs to stop shifting rather than blocking. The dealer said it was dfine, but it's always made me uncomfortable.

Try bumping the camper all the way forward against the truck bed or some blocking if it needs to sit back a couple inches. Other than that you already have the optimal no skid setup unless your camper is made of Teflon or something.Also, are the rubber mats shifting or just the camper? If just the camper, you could sink a bunch of short sheet metal screws into the bottom, effectively “studding” the camper floor. It will not move then unless you get it airborn!

TC sliding around in bed | Good Sam Community

sbryan
Explorer II
Jan 26, 2018
Good advice so far. I am in the camp that has never heard of not bringing the camper all the way forward to the truck bed or to some blocking at the front to keep it from shifting. Without that to stabilize it I can see why it shifted. Everything else you have done sounds fine.
Grit_dog
Navigator
Jan 26, 2018
Try bumping the camper all the way forward against the truck bed or some blocking if it needs to sit back a couple inches.
Other than that you already have the optimal no skid setup unless your camper is made of Teflon or something.

Also, are the rubber mats shifting or just the camper? If just the camper, you could sink a bunch of short sheet metal screws into the bottom, effectively “studding” the camper floor. It will not move then unless you get it airborn!
bkenobi
Explorer
Jan 26, 2018
stevenal wrote:
bkenobi wrote:
I don't have any blocking at the front and don't load it to the front.

I've not heard of anyone getting away with this. Properly adjusted tie downs should pull the camper into the front of the bed, and relying on mats to keep it from sliding forward during hard braking seems risky. If the camper cannot be loaded all the way forward, suggest making blocking job #1.

I'm presently running a short bed camper on a long bed truck. Blocking was easily achieved by building a frame out of 2X8s and screws. If you don't need this kind of footage, just stack 2Xs until you have the distance needed. Side blocks can then be added to the front block to stop any side to side motion at the front.

This is what I thought. As an ME, I've wondered why it's a good idea to rely on friction and tie downs to stop shifting rather than blocking. The dealer said it was dfine, but it's always made me uncomfortable.
stevenal
Nomad II
Jan 26, 2018
bkenobi wrote:
I don't have any blocking at the front and don't load it to the front.

I've not heard of anyone getting away with this. Properly adjusted tie downs should pull the camper into the front of the bed, and relying on mats to keep it from sliding forward during hard braking seems risky. If the camper cannot be loaded all the way forward, suggest making blocking job #1.

I'm presently running a short bed camper on a long bed truck. Blocking was easily achieved by building a frame out of 2X8s and screws. If you don't need this kind of footage, just stack 2Xs until you have the distance needed. Side blocks can then be added to the front block to stop any side to side motion at the front.
moebedick
Explorer
Jan 26, 2018
I have a 3/4" bed mat (Ford) on my unlined bed. My Northstar sits on a 2X3" frame to clear the truck roof and lights. I use Torklift fast guns,tight,but not so tight that they will damage the camper. We've done three cross country trips,including off road travel,and have never had the camper move more than a fraction of an inch.

You don't have to off load to adjust your camper. Using the legs individually,it is possible to adjust the position of the camper. I would recommend that you block the front of the camper to prevent excessive movement before you make any adjustments. Then tighten your tie downs,just not too tight.
TxGearhead
Explorer II
Jan 26, 2018
If you cut the plywood to fit the truck bed it can't slide. Mine is 5/8" plywood cut in 4 pieces. It is pretty much locked in at the tailgate opening. I put a rubber truck mat designed for my truck model on top of that. Both the plywood and mat should be covering the entire bed. If you just put a sheet of 4' x 8' plywood in the truck it will slide around. The areas in front and behind the fender wells need to be covered.
I think I used 3 sheets of plywood to cover the entire bed.

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