While chasing down a charging problem with my truck last fall I had my two 6V in series batteries load tested at an auto parts store. They tested bad and Costco replaced them since they were about 8 months old. Yesterday I had the new batteries load tested again and the new ones failed. Costco again replaced them.It seems unlikely that the batteries should fail twice in less than a year. Does load testing work on 6V deep cycle GC batteries? The kid doing the testing knew less than I did and I don't know much about testing batteries. We chose to use the setting for marine batteries since we figured that was as close as we could get to GC batteries. They also failed at the setting for regular starting batteries.

Seems like you have discovered a new battery goldmine. Not sure of the ethics but Costco is buying it....hmmmm

Lwiddis wrote:Seems like you have discovered a new battery goldmine. Not sure of the ethics but Costco is buying tit...hmmmmYes, it is odd. I asked Costco to test them but they said they do not do that. They accepted the test from the auto parts store. I don't want to take advantage of Costco, thus my question about the test.

Ecomony of scale I guess. You have a test by an independent business saying battery is bad. Kid or no kid he tested for that company. You didn't influence the test. Costco says they accept the test that says battery is bad and won't test it themselves. You have no way to dispute test or force Costco to test. Certainly in my state you have done nothing wrong. You can lead the horse to water but you can't...

12v tester or 6 volt? did you test them in series? Did he charge them at 14.8 volts for at least two hours before testing?What was the amp draw for the test? what was the cut-off voltage to fail?Not sure I know the answers but the method needs to be explained.

Bottom line is that if they don't power anything after charging them, they need to be replaced. I'd suggest you find the source of the draw that is killing the batteries or you'll be destined to a life of battery replacement. It may also lead to a bad situation after setting up at camp. You do have a disconnect switch or remove a battery cable while in storage?In a previous career, I maintained a fleet of over 500 6V batteries. They are very forgiving and hard to kill. If you have to keep replacing them, there is either a constant draw or they are not being charged right. From your OP, it sounds like a mix of both but we don't know how you are using them and what they power. Sharing that may bring better results.

Testing 6V Batteries | Good Sam Community

wgriswold
Explorer
May 31, 2017
IT_Burnout wrote:
Just an idea, I would take the new ones you just got and have them tested at the same place. It might provide some insight into if the load test is really valid or not. If it comes back bad you might want to have them tested at a battery specific place. I know Interstate Battery has battery centers all over the country that specialize in just batteries. You might get someone with a bit more knowledge doing the test. If the new ones test good, well my idea is totally worthless,:B and its back to looking at the camper.

That is what I will do. The trailer is in storage now and I will get in a few weeks and have the batteries tested.
2oldman
Explorer II
May 31, 2017
IT_Burnout wrote:
Just an idea, I would take the new ones you just got and have them tested at the same place.
I like it!
IT_Burnout
Explorer
May 31, 2017
Just an idea, I would take the new ones you just got and have them tested at the same place. It might provide some insight into if the load test is really valid or not. If it comes back bad you might want to have them tested at a battery specific place. I know Interstate Battery has battery centers all over the country that specialize in just batteries. You might get someone with a bit more knowledge doing the test. If the new ones test good, well my idea is totally worthless,:B and its back to looking at the camper.
time2roll
Nomad
May 31, 2017
wgriswold wrote:
They were charged overnight by the converter on my trailer and then tested. I don't know the answers to the other questions.
Have the batteries ever been below 12.0 volts for an extended period?

What converter do you have?

I am thinking they have either sat discharged and sulfated or have been chronically undercharged by a WFCO.
westend
Explorer
May 31, 2017
wgriswold wrote:
westend wrote:
wgriswold wrote:
westend wrote:
Bottom line is that if they don't power anything after charging them, they need to be replaced. I'd suggest you find the source of the draw that is killing the batteries or you'll be destined to a life of battery replacement. It may also lead to a bad situation after setting up at camp.

You do have a disconnect switch or remove a battery cable while in storage?

They didn't fail. I noticed a dimming of lights when another light was turned on and wanted to test the batteries. I have a disconnect switch and use it in storage.

Share the model/yr/make of your TT and the converter make/model. Most folks don't know that 6V GC2 batteries need 14.8V on a steady diet for longevity and performance.

Do you have a hand-held meter?

Arctic Fox, 2001 with a Progressive converter but I don't know the model. I added a charge wizard. The first pair of 6V batteries lasted 7 years and were only replaced because I thought it was time. I have a volt meter and I don't think it is charged at 14.8V, more like at 13.5, IIRC.

Yeah, some of the older PD chargers didn't get up to 14.8V in bulk stage. 13.5V will charge a pair but it will be a long time and there will still be a drop in capacity.

I'd suggest to measure voltage at the output of the converter and see how high you can get it.Report back.
Goosing the charge that exists from your trailer converter with a higher voltage stand-alone charger or power supply is one way of maintaining a pair of 6V's. But, since you have 7 yrs. out a previous pair, something has probably changed. One suspect is a failing circuit breaker/fuse holder on a battery cable. If it sets up enough resistance, current will have a hard time going either way. Check those connections!
wgriswold
Explorer
May 31, 2017
westend wrote:
wgriswold wrote:
westend wrote:
Bottom line is that if they don't power anything after charging them, they need to be replaced. I'd suggest you find the source of the draw that is killing the batteries or you'll be destined to a life of battery replacement. It may also lead to a bad situation after setting up at camp.

You do have a disconnect switch or remove a battery cable while in storage?

They didn't fail. I noticed a dimming of lights when another light was turned on and wanted to test the batteries. I have a disconnect switch and use it in storage.

Share the model/yr/make of your TT and the converter make/model. Most folks don't know that 6V GC2 batteries need 14.8V on a steady diet for longevity and performance.

Do you have a hand-held meter?

Arctic Fox, 2001 with a Progressive converter but I don't know the model. I added a charge wizard. The first pair of 6V batteries lasted 7 years and were only replaced because I thought it was time. I have a volt meter and I don't think it is charged at 14.8V, more like at 13.5, IIRC.
westend
Explorer
May 31, 2017
wgriswold wrote:
westend wrote:
Bottom line is that if they don't power anything after charging them, they need to be replaced. I'd suggest you find the source of the draw that is killing the batteries or you'll be destined to a life of battery replacement. It may also lead to a bad situation after setting up at camp.

You do have a disconnect switch or remove a battery cable while in storage?

They didn't fail. I noticed a dimming of lights when another light was turned on and wanted to test the batteries. I have a disconnect switch and use it in storage.

Share the model/yr/make of your TT and the converter make/model. Most folks don't know that 6V GC2 batteries need 14.8V on a steady diet for longevity and performance.

Do you have a hand-held meter?
wgriswold
Explorer
May 31, 2017
westend wrote:
Bottom line is that if they don't power anything after charging them, they need to be replaced. I'd suggest you find the source of the draw that is killing the batteries or you'll be destined to a life of battery replacement. It may also lead to a bad situation after setting up at camp.

You do have a disconnect switch or remove a battery cable while in storage?

They didn't fail. I noticed a dimming of lights when another light was turned on and wanted to test the batteries. I have a disconnect switch and use it in storage.
2oldman
Explorer II
May 31, 2017
..
wgriswold
Explorer
May 31, 2017
time2roll wrote:
12v tester or 6 volt? did you test them in series? Did he charge them at 14.8 volts for at least two hours before testing?

What was the amp draw for the test? what was the cut-off voltage to fail?

Not sure I know the answers but the method needs to be explained.

The tester was a handheld device about 14" x 6" x 1" with a screen readout. On the marine setting it asked for amp-hours and we put in 210. It worked away for about 15 seconds and announced that the battery was bad. The batteries were tested in series at 12V.

They were charged overnight by the converter on my trailer and then tested. I don't know the answers to the other questions.

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