they don't make'm like they used to.
Just replaced both front wheel bearings on my truck. They only lasted 8yrs. and 122,000 miles. I traded in my 85 3/4 ton chevy in 02 with 160,000 after 17 yrs. and allot of 4 wheeling with no front en...
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It's not a typical service procedure and likely not recommended by any sealed bearing manufacturer, but I have stuck a hypodermic needle and surringe of grease into the rubber/plastic seal of smaller sealed bearings and shot some grease into them that way, on bicycles and skateboards. The metal sides of the automotive sealed bearings would likely prevent that though.
Non-zirk-fitted axle and driveline u-joints can be taken apart and the needle bearings and cups cleaned and greased. I've done that before. However, u-joints are so cheap that most of the times I've had them out, I've replaced them with new, aftermarket ones, already drilled, tapped and fitted with grease zirks, so I can easily maintain them in future, without hassling with pressing the cups in/out of the yokes.
Greaseable zirc fitted ball joints are no more expensive than non-greaseable ones, typically, so it's dumb to go through the job of replacing a set of ball joints and put in another set of new, non-serviceable ones. Same thing with tie rod ends.
Non-zirk-fitted axle and driveline u-joints can be taken apart and the needle bearings and cups cleaned and greased. I've done that before. However, u-joints are so cheap that most of the times I've had them out, I've replaced them with new, aftermarket ones, already drilled, tapped and fitted with grease zirks, so I can easily maintain them in future, without hassling with pressing the cups in/out of the yokes.
Greaseable zirc fitted ball joints are no more expensive than non-greaseable ones, typically, so it's dumb to go through the job of replacing a set of ball joints and put in another set of new, non-serviceable ones. Same thing with tie rod ends.
