donn0128 wrote:
donn0128 wrote:
Huh? Makes no sense. Why would you buy a marginal tool then try to beef it up?
Naw. The trailer at around 38 feet long and a 8800 pound GVWR is simply too much trailer for a 150/1500 series truck.
Aha! Well, then that's the problem. The OP didn't buy a 1/2 ton marginal vehicle. He wisely bought a
heavy duty truck with around 11,500 pounds tow capacity. His
33ft camper checks in at 8500 pound GVWR, well
under the recommended limit.
One of the problems with modern trucks, both 1/2 ton series and lately 3/4 ton series, is that the magazine shootouts critically rate them for soft ride. As a consequence, the rear axles have longer travel to handle similar weights as in the past, yet are more compliant over a greater range for better ride. It is not rocket science; the leaf springs are generally longer.
Since
all steel springs normally have a linear load/compression characteristic, a direct relationship of pounds per inch, they now simply compress more to handle increased load. On the other hand, ordinary OEM shock absorbers (dampers) are preset to damp only ordinary rebound forces, even then a little on the gentle side to enhance unloaded ride tests. On anything but a smooth road, the extra reciprocating weight of bouncing campers is not accurately accounted for in OEM damping restriction settings. Either get Bilsteins or a quality adjustable shock like Rancho for best results.
To make things worse, many Travel Trailers have an "extra spring" that has no damping at all. The spring is the set of equalizing bars that many folks prefer to use (for good reason). During wavy interstate travel, a late model stock truck is more likely to porpoise as the OEM shocks are inadequate for just the loaded truck springs. Add the rebound of equalizing bars and the undamped natural frequency, aka porpoising, can get quite annoying.
Adding air bags or other springs also affect corresponding rebound damping; suitable new adequate shocks are again preferred.
Wes
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