Tire Advice

uconn_jack wrote:
Hi,

I recently had a blowout on my 2009 Skyline Layton 2970 TT (8,800 GVWR). Bought it used late last year, great shape, with Goodyears (including spare) on it that also looked in good shape and that I understand were about 3 yrs old. Tread-wise they have at least another year to them, and since I am on a bit of a budget, I could just put the current spare into use and get a new spare. However, even being Goodyears, with the blowout I'm not sure I trust the rest and would rather buy 4 new.

I know how most feel about "china-bombs", but I am on a budget so can't go with the Maxxis or Sailuns everyone raves about. Plus I'm not convinced its as big of a problem as its made out to be (my old TT had Greenballs and then HiRuns, never had a blowout until the Goodyears). So anyway, I have narrowed it down to the following tires (ST225/75R15):

Power King Towmax Vanguard - Load Index 117, Load Range E, Speed N
Trailer King RST - Load Index 117, Load Range E, Speed M
Gladiator QR25-TS - Load Index 117, Load Range E, Speed N
Carlisle Radial Trail HD - Load Index 113, Load Range D, Speed M

Now I know Carlisle is the only one of these brands that seems to be acceptable by many, and it is only about $10-15 more per tire than the others, but it does have lower load and speed specs than the others. The Carlisle specs are sufficient for my TT weight, but I am wondering if getting more load buffer with the 117/E tires might be better, despite those tires being held in less regard.

Looking forward to opinions! Thanks!

Welcome aboard!

I always used the Goodyear Endurance tires.

If you live close to central CT, Bolton Notch RV Storage does good service work on Rvs, maybe give them a call. I don't remember the brand but they also they do offer another cheaper tire that they have had good experience with if you want to save some money.

Good luck
Mike

You are seeing comments about the cost of a blowout being far higher than the cost of god tires.

My blowout cost over $4000 and took 9 mmonths to get it 95%v fixed.

Grit dog wrote:
If you’re on a budget then you should look at the mfg dates on the tires for free and see if they’re really only 3 years old. And if they are, and haven’t been constantly beat by the sun in the desert or some equally as destructive treatment, then buy one tire to replace the blowout.
And I’d buy an E rated tire because, why not?

I agree with the above except, if you have 3 good GY Endurance replace the 1 tire with the same. The Endurance has a heavy, thick, stiff side wall that doesn't flex as much. A cheaper tire would behave differently.

I rode on Endurances for 6 years. I had to run them at 70psi to keep them from bouncing. I replaced them with cheap Contenders. I can run them at 80psi with no bounce

Looking over your new tire list and reviewing the Goodyear, here are some comments to consider.

On the Goodyear that had the blowout, I'm assuming you are referring to the Endurance trailer tire? If so, the ST22575R15 tires were in an E load range, with a Load index 117. Correct me if I have stated this wrong.

Here are some questions to ask yourself.

Something caused that tire to have a blowout; why? What is the DOT date code on the tires on the camper now? Assuming you bought all four simultaneously, they should be close. You are after the date of manufacture, not the date you installed them.

What tire pressure do you run those tires at?

Do you make a lot of hard 90 or 180 turns with the camper on a hard surface at your home/storage place every time you come and go to a campout?

Have you weighed the camper, axle by axle, and ideally, each wheel position?

What tire load range did Skyline place on the camper? With an 8,800 GVWR sounds like you already took a jump to E load range from what may have been a D load range by Skyline.

Comments on what may have happened.

There is a term called "interply shear" that happens on tandem axle trailers in turns. In a turn on a tandem or triple axle trailers, the tire tread and tire internals are getting stressed from the high friction between the road and the tire, when the tread does not slip on the road. The tire has to withstand this effect. Look this topic up on the web, it happens and is more aggravated by low air pressure, overloading, lots of hard turns, and tire age, to name a few.

Something caused your tire to blow out; think through what may have happened and why so you can correct it in the future. If you are low on pressure, that is a problem. The only way to lower the risk of interply shear that is practical, is more reserve load capacity per the loaded tire. This reserve capacity is above the stated rating on the tire. Some tire experts (I'm not one of them, but I had to deal with his) suggest 20% extra reserve tire capacity over the heaviest loaded wheel.

If you already jumped to E load range over the factory D load range, you could gain more reserve load capacity, but you will only get the increased reserve capacity from increased air pressure in the E load range tires. Suggest running them at the max cold side wall stated pressure on a trailer.

Was there a series of big potholes on a trip sometime? Potholes at 50 to 60 mph are bad news to a trailer tire, especially if the pressure is not at max. Damage internally can start that then takes a long time to rear its ugly head with a blowout.

There is a common trend on tandem or triple axle trailers when one tire blows out. The tires are at or close to or at full load capacity all the time. When the blowout happens, the other tires on that side go into overload. Now they have taken a hit of internal damage. It is common that those other tires can fail prematurely as time goes on. All of your fears about changing them now are a good concern. You are at increased risk if the damaged tires are not changed.

Having lived through the trailer damage that can occur when the tread flys off, the camper repair cost can outweigh the tire cost. Do you want the risk of simultaneously dealing with camper damage on top of new tire costs?

Not sure if you have a TPM (tire pressure monitor) on the camper; if not, consider adding one in the future.

I also noticed in your list of new tires; the Carlises were not at the 113 load index and not the 117 load index of the others. To give the Carlises a fighting chance, go with the 117 load index.

Try and figure out what caused your blowout and how to prevent it for the next time.

Hope this helps

John

Power King and Trailer King have the worst rap in the larger sizes. Carlisle gets good mention. GY Endurance gets the nod in your size.

If you’re on a budget then you should look at the mfg dates on the tires for free and see if they’re really only 3 years old. And if they are, and haven’t been constantly beat by the sun in the desert or some equally as destructive treatment, then buy one tire to replace the blowout.
And I’d buy an E rated tire because, why not?

Don't worry about brand. Keep the tires properly inflated and don't overload them and a blowout is unlikely.

Overload and underinflate the supposed top of the line brands and expect blowouts.

For many years I have had very good luck with both Goodyear and Maxxis tires and sometimes towed TT heavily loaded. Also good service from both Hancook and Goodyear tires on heavily loaded tow vehicle. Constantly checking for proper tire pressure. Only one problem with leaking valve stem in Utah. All is good with the 4 Rs. Yup

Blowouts can tear up a trailer costing you lots more than replacing a tire. The majority of the tire failures that I have seen personally have been due to overloading and under inflation. I would go with at least an 'E' Load Range tire and all the tire people that I talk to say to run the trailer tire at the max PSI (cold) for that tire. If you know the weight on the axles, do the math and if you have a load and tire pressure chart for that tire, you may be able to inflate to a lower PSI. I ran my trailer tires at max PSI for the last 50 years and never had a blowout. With regular inspection checking the condition and temperature of the tires, I did find once a trailer tire that started to bulge due to ply separation. The last 40 miles of a 1,200 mile trip on a single axle boat trailer. It would not have made it home.