Cabman,
I missed the memo on the year of your 3500 and whether it's DRW or SRW. This makes a difference on what size tire will fit.
I just put 315/75R16 AT3's on my truck. The tire, at least in this size is heavier than most MT and AT tires of the same size. Why? larger tread blocks and smaller voids. Air weighs less than rubber. The carcass seems heavier and by extension tougher than BFG AT's and others of the same size. I know you have 18's, which I wish I would have gone to, but to get the straight dope on the diameter, cross section, tread, depth, load capacity, be sure to go to the specification section of the tire mfgr. for that specific tire. Not one that's cheaper or close. Some other things to consider are availability around the country and the range of wheel widths for which they are recommended. You may have to do some digging but it's on the mfg.'s website somewhere. I originally ordered 295/75R16's for the same reasons you want them and the web site said only 8 tires in that size were available anywhere in the U.S. I said I would pay for the shipping from New Jersey to CA just to get them and they completely lost track of the tires in transit so I had to start all over picking a tire that had 50-or 60 available nationwide in that specific size. TBBW (tire buyer be-ware). Ask the dealer how many are available nationwide. What if you have a blowout in Ames Iowa? Are there replacements available?
Another thing to consider is the diameter change between old and new. I went from a 32" tire to a 35" tire with new heavier steel wheels in one pop. I went to this website to find out what rpm difference it would make in my gearing.
http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html
They had the slickest version of a gear ratio calculator anywhere on the net. Just fill in the blanks. Pick your transmission, gear ratio, tire size and off you go. It was kind of like a video game when you change one number everything rattles around to the next readout.
What I found going from 32" to 35" tires (stock were 31.5") was that my gearing was now too tall to carry a camper successfully and use all 6 gears in the box. I have 3.54:1 pigs. By going to 4.10:1 diffs, it turns back the clock and makes the final drive the same as it was before. That'll never happen again. I was turning 1600 rpm @55 mph in 6th gear, with the 3.54's and 32's. With 4.10's and 35" tires it will be 1603 rpm @ 55. Lucky indeed.
So, there's more to it than meets the eye.
However, I probably have a different paradigm than you regarding tires. I want lots of sidewall for lowering the pressure and driving the 10K pound white brick on sand...and the dunes......and miles of beach,...@20-25 pounds pressure. I know, it's a weird and wacky desire, but I've done it for a while with super singles and find out that a mud tread is not as good on sand as a tread with a ratio of more tread block and less void. There is a reason the old-timers called big knobby tires: "Grave Diggers".
I'm thinking the AT3's will give more miles of use than a big void tire and still work O.K. on snow. BTDT. Jeanie has the AT3's on her 2011 Grand Chero Limited, and they have given way more miles that I expected. 50K+ miles. My son Matt also runs them on his 2001 Grand Chero with the resulting same high mileage.
jefe