TorkLift Upper Stable loads installation?

AnEv942 wrote:
Really... that's supposed to work? One size fits all... Even if removing the original rubber and happened there's a hole or end up drilling how does a flat bottom bolt to a curved surface? If there was a hole I assume it'd be centered so contact would be off, further working the bolt. Goofy IMO

Has some one actually done this?

If I had to use those Id be inclined to pull the o'ls, drill and mount to top leave, clearance hole the bottom leave so they could still move independently.If I had to use those Id be inclined to pull the o'ls, drill and mount to top leave, clearance hole the bottom leave so they could still move independently.
Or someone should design replacement brackets. Bewildered...
Given the weight you plan seems being in the LA area a decent spring shop could be found at reasonable cost to replace springs.

Probably just me- I don't get it, never looked at them before.
I just looked at my truck, 01 Ford. Not as much curve as yours-different, think they might work. Springs are flatter in relation to less curved bracket. Plus it appears there would be, if any, a lot less engagement with no load. Curious.
Wonder how difficult to slide the stock rubber off to see if hole? Pulling all 4 four to drill sounds like work...

I'd like to watch you do that.....:R

In as much as your leaf springs are tempered, quenched and stress relieved (heat treated), drilling a hole will be impossible with a High Speed bit. Rockwell on a spring leaf will be in the mid to high 80's, not drillable with conventional means by a long shot. You could drill a hole with a High Rock die redlaim drill but your hardware store won't have one. Hi-Rock's are solid micrograin Tungsten Carbide btw.