Torklifts & Fastgun's
I just finished the purchase of a 10-2 Northern Lite TC & in another month, I will be driving a 2018 Chevy 3500 dually. Now I'm in the market for the tie-downs. When I look at Torklift products, it's...
Forum Discussion
Kayteg1 wrote:
Isn't HJ using bed-mounted brackets, that are determinate unsafe on modern beds?
I have TL set on my long bed Ford and do have to remove it for fueling. Don't see the way around it. Takes about 5 seconds to take down and maybe 7 to put back.
I am in favor of stainless steel whenever it can apply. I have chromed FastGuns and they do show some corrosion.
Also pay the attention to rod lengths. I hate using chain extensions.
As mentioned above - aluminium when sprayed with salty mud will corrode and the material doesn't flex as much as steel does, so I would rather buy steel and spend 99 cents every season for a can of spray paint.
Cannot answer the 'safety' thing. Deemed 'unsafe' by who? The same people that cannot answer your static pressure on a tie down?
Elasticity in stainless is entirely dependent of grade used, just like mild steel and aluminum.
The 'way' around it is add a longer tie plate to the end, exactly what I did for a friend's F350 with the fuel door issue. I wacked off the original plate CNC plasma cut a new one and welded it on. That spaced the tie down farther forward. Did the same on the other side to equalize the pull. Not only does it clear the fuel door, it increased the angle of pull on the front tie down set.
The other less intensive option is to add a length of heater hose, zip tied to the tie down rod so the door hits the hose instead of the metal rod and chips the point on the filler door. Either way works but not relocating the rod don't eliminate tedious fuel fill issue, jut saves the paint.
